tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-86003193874725371102024-03-15T15:30:48.843-04:00 Vacuuming the LawnStitching and UnstitchingKylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.comBlogger846125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-41783703998988492262017-12-29T12:09:00.000-05:002019-09-02T15:15:51.338-04:00My Favorite NYC Garment District Spots - Updated Sept 2019<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/22813384618/in/photolist-P3mGkd-PaxyrC-P3mFHw-PdDpiB-PdDpSx-P5Srut-PdDqCv-P5SvFV-AKWwgb-PdDmiP-AKWziJ-P5Sq7t-PdDm8t-AKWyry-AKWw6w-AKWtGJ-AKWtD7-AKWuB9-P3mu7L-ECCPVr-P5So8t-PaxrE1-PaxpUN-P3mAqs-PdD9KP-NKYSBJ-PaxcNd-AKWzf7-P3mBd9-PaxrLy-PdDjHK-EBuB3z-PdDoND/" title="IMG_20161114_134741"><img alt="IMG_20161114_134741" height="320" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5591/22813384618_1f4ef990fb_z.jpg" width="240" /></a>
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<b><i>Channeling <a href="http://communingwithfabric.blogspot.com/">Shams from Communing with Fabric</a> at the Garment Worker statue Nov. 2016</i></b><br />
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<b><u>***UPDATED Sept 2, 2019***</u></b><br />
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Hi everyone! Although <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2017/03/navel-gazing-about-blogging-or-not.html">I'm not blogging anymore</a>, I am asked frequently enough about my favorite NYC Garment District spots that I felt it would be easier to direct those interested to a post. (For more info on why I'm not blogging anymore, <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2017/03/navel-gazing-about-blogging-or-not.html">see this post</a>. I'm still very active <a href="https://www.instagram.com/vacuumingthelawn/">on Instagram</a>, my whole creative life is there.)<br />
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<b><u>Store hours</u></b><br />
It depends on the shop, but most are not open nights, some are not open on Saturdays and very few are open on Sundays. For maximum shopping fun, go on a weekday and start early (like 9am) and shop the (mainly 9-5) day away.<br />
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<b><u>Fabric stores in the Garment District: there are a lot, here are just some highlights</u></b><br />
I'm limiting myself to a little blurb about each shop; click on the PR Review link (if I wrote one) for more detail. Note that some stores are in office buildings and there's no indication at street level that there's a fabric shop tucked away somewhere up above. Just go into the lobby and press the elevator button confidently.<br />
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<b>Metro Textiles</b> --weekdays only--take the elevator to the 9th floor, take a right and another right and shop away! Kashi will help you and is eager to cut your purchases. Great for pontes, wool, silks, some denim, some fabrics you never knew you needed. Small but incredibly fun and GREAT prices. Be sure to get your picture taken with Kashi--a sewing blogger/Instagrammer right of passage! <a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/store/2883">My PR review</a>.<br />
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<b>Leather Impact</b> -- leathers of all kinds and colors, plus leather strapping and leather piping.<br />
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<b>Mood Fabrics</b>--Mon-Sat--take the elevator to the 3rd floor for the fashion fabrics(Mood Home is street level, but not connected to the fashion fabrics). If you're a Project Runway fan you have to check out their three floors of garment fabric. I find Mood to be overwhelming, though, and only go if there is something in particular I have in mind and my other faves above don't have it. <a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/store/2889">My PR review.</a><br />
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<b><u>Notions/other shops </u></b><br />
<b>Botani (street level) </b>is very high-end and where I get most of my custom zippers made (think girl with a ponytail zippers). Tons of rib knit and bag hardware galore!! Expensive, but makes your bag look SO profesh! <a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/store/2891">My PR review.</a><br />
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<b>Pacific Trimming</b> (street level) is amazing! This store underwent a giant renovation in 2019 which expanded the size of the shop by maybe double? Great prices--large assortment of colors and sizes for underwear elastic, bag strapping, bag hardware, cording, studs, jeans shank buttons, Riri zippers custom cut, petersham ribbon...these are a few of my favorite things about Pacific. Much smaller selection of rib knit compared to Botani, but they have some. <a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/store/2888">My PR review.</a><br />
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<b>SIL Thread </b>(street level) <b>--</b>my invisible zipper haven and my place for buying YKK chunky plastic molded zippers cut to size. Also my place for Clover notions, sashiko and embroidery needles. <a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/store/2892">My PR review.</a><br />
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<b><u>Other Garment District (or Garment District adjacent) shops etc</u></b><br />
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<b>Gotham Quilts -- </b>I'm not a quilter but have bought some of their fabric for bag linings. They also have a lot of embroidery kits and my favorite embroidery scissors of all time, which are rose gold stork scissors--very smooth and also nice to hold.<br />
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<b>The Garment Worker statue--</b>at the corner of W39th and 7th. Have your picture taken there!<br />
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<b>Kinokuniya --</b>super cute bookshop that has Japanese pattern and crafting books in the basement.<br />
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<b>Purl Soho</b>--not in the Garment District, but such a fun shop full of inspiration. Mainly for quilters, knitters, and embroidery types, but there are some garment patterns and a small selection of garment fabric. <a href="https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/store/2893">My PR review.</a><br />
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<b>Doughnut Plant at Grand Central Station</b>--adjacent to the Garment District. See my Doughnut Plant info in the "Chelsea area things" section below for into.<br />
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<b><u>Chelsea area things</u></b><br />
Walk or take the subway from the Garment District to Chelsea for <b>Doughnut Plant </b>doughnuts (the Brooklyn Blackout--a chocolate cake doughnut--and Wild Blueberry are my favorites), <b>TrueMart </b>(street level--Sun-Fri) a shoebox sized garment fabric shop that is uber fun and quick, and the <b>FIT Museum</b> (free, small, Tues-Sat). New in 2019 is the <b>FabScrap Shop</b>, a street level Chelsea outpost of the FabScrap Brooklyn warehouse space. FabScrap sells reclaimed fabric, leather, and trims from NYC designers that would have gone into the trash if FabScrap didn't rescue them, and it's a delight to browse through their well lit, organized, and clean shop! Two great places to have lunch/dinner down there are <b>Westville </b>(farm to table, organic, great veggie plate) and a restaurant called <b>Cafeteria</b>. <b>Sullivan St Bakery</b> (on 9th, not on Sullivan St) was highly recommended by Peter Lappin for breakfast/lunch and it's delicious!<br />
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<b><u>Shopping order</u></b><br />
If I have custom zippers to order, I go to Botani first, then visit Kashi at Metro Textiles (and have him ship my fabric). Then I have lunch at Macaron Cafe (great salads and sandwiches, then get some macarons--my fave is the dark chocolate) or Maison Kayser, but in warm weather I might eat lunch in Bryant Park. Then I go to trim shops (like Pacific Trimming) and then another fabric store or two, and back Botani to pick up my zippers. Then I either take the subway down to Doughnut Plant in Chelsea to pick up some doughnuts and go to TrueMart and/or the FabScrap Shop, or, if I'm not going to Chelsea, I head over to the Doughnut Plant location at Grand Central Station.<br />
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<b><u>Hauling it / Shipping it</u></b><br />
Note that you're in the city. It's not like when you go to JoJo's and buy a bunch of fabric, throw it in your car and drive home. Whatever you buy you have to carry with you, and fabric is heavy. On some trips like PR weekend, folks bring rolling carts, but if I buy a lot I prefer to ship. There are FedEx storefronts all over Manhattan, but honestly the easiest shipping method is to have Kashi ship. You can throw purchases from other stores into your Kashi pile and he will ship them for you with the fabric you buy from his shop, but he will also chide you for not buying all the fabric from him. If it's other stuff (say Kinokuniya purchases or notions), those will escape comment. :) Many other stores ship too, but the shipping process at Kashi's is the easiest IMHO.<br />
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<b><u>Need more help? </u></b><br />
Mimi at <a href="http://shopthegarmentdistrict.blogspot.com/">Shop the Garment District</a> sells generic Garment District maps and also will create a customized map for your shopping interests. I'm not affiliated with her or her blog, but based on everything she's ever written, I'm sure she can steer you in the right direction.<br />
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<b><u>Summing it up...</u></b><br />
So the above are my faves, not a comprehensive listing of every single shop in the Garment District--there are a lot.. :) Have a shop you love that I should know about? Have a NYC Garment District question for me? Let me know in the comments!<br />
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<b>RIP</b> to the following old faves: The City Quilter, Paron Fabrics, French Couture Fabrics, The Red Cat, and the Moaz location by Bryant Park.<br />
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Be well!!<br />
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<br />Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-53489500187331644102017-03-09T21:08:00.001-05:002017-04-07T19:56:20.871-04:00Navel gazing about blogging, or not blogging<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/32516828173/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20170308_162918"><img alt="IMG_20170308_162918" height="400" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/629/32516828173_be32d8f6b9_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>Swatch at Mood
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If I've met you in person the last three years, we've probably had this conversation at some point, where I talk about giving up blogging. It's been on my mind for awhile, but I've pretty much stopped blogging this year. I have not stopped creating, though. I have a lot of things to show you that I've made recently (garments, keychains, embroidery.) I have a lot of stories to tell (how I sewed a sweatshirt that is the most expensive thing I've ever made, how I used another sewist's scraps to sew 2 shirts for myself, how I used two lengths of fabric that I thought were the same to sew stretch velvet pants, and then it turned out they were not the same fabric, how I am getting the Jalie Eleonores to fit me better in the waistband.) I still have flowers to show you. I went to the Day Without a Woman rally in NYC yesterday at noon; I'd like to tell you about that. I bought a cover stitch machine last weekend, I can totally see writing about that too.<br />
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However, I have a dearth of desire to write the blog. It takes a lot of time/effort to write the blog, match up the pix to the text, caption the pix, remove flickr tags that embeds flickr branding in the photos, etc etc etc). Most posts take 90 minutes at least. Larger posts can take 3 hours. I have tried challenging myself to write complete posts in 60 minutes including incorporating already-taken pix into the posts; most of the time I go over.<br />
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I used my blog as a public journal for keeping track of my sewing, for writing out what I changed about garments, writing about techniques, and just plain show and tell. Sometimes I search my own blog for information, but I also keep a hand written notebook of techniques, and I could go back to the "pre blogging days" of writing changes on the pattern envelopes themselves.<br />
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My blog wound up being a way that I met fellow sewists, through your kind comments and your own blogs, and stayed connected with you. I have never had a Facebook account (and never intend to) but I joined Instagram in August 2015 and have really enjoyed it. If there is a point I want to record for posterity, lately I've been adding it as an Instagram comment. At this point I think I've met maybe half as many people IRL from IG as I have from my blog, but I expect that number will grow. <br />
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My entire creative life is there on IG. You don't need an IG account to see my IG account on your computer, but you do need one to like and comment. AFAIK, you can only get an IG account by downloading the app on your smart phone and signing up for an account--then if you want to you could log in, like and comment from your computer, or just use the app on your phone. <br />
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I love IG and am addicted to it. IG feels like appetizers. Blog posts are like 5 course meals.<br />
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I attended Sew Expo in Puyallup, WA for the first time ever this past weekend and maybe I will write a post about it this weekend? I just don't know. I don't know if writing this post tonight will somehow reignite my desire to blog. It certainly doesn't feel like an official goodbye, but it doesn't feel like I'm just taking a break either. <br />
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I will be at PR weekend in NYC June 2-3 this year. So maybe I'll see you there? Or on IG? Or maybe I'll meet you back here, this weekend, or next week, or next month. <br />
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Here's my link to Instagram: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/vacuumingthelawn/">https://www.instagram.com/vacuumingthelawn/</a>
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Right now, there's a lot on there about the Day Without a Woman march, and then Sew Expo, and then the creative stuff!
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Thank you for reading and commenting! Be well!!! Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com44tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-65931022092014544202017-02-14T07:11:00.002-05:002017-02-14T07:12:03.700-05:00Happy Valentine's Day!<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/32742974502" title="IMG_20170211_191953"><img alt="IMG_20170211_191953" height="300" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2331/32742974502_5ababe9cef_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<b><i>"Just got Botox"</i></b><br />
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Happy Valentine's Day! Sending y'all love and warm, soothing, healing energy today. Love these lips craftspacecontinuum stitched up and sent me. :)<br />
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Be well!<br />
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<br />Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-22771608562490163082017-02-07T22:48:00.001-05:002017-02-08T09:09:39.813-05:00The Womens March on New Jersey<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/32384475466/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20170120_120302"><img alt="IMG_20170120_120302" height="400" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/744/32384475466_04534f173e_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>Outside Princeton U stadium the day before the march, distributing the last of the 64 hats I sewed. (I gave them to people; I didn't leave them there).</i></b><br />
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It's about time that I write about the Womens March, which took place on January 21, but feels like it was so long ago. I marched in Trenton, NJ, the capital of my home state, with Francesca, my 81 year old friend from my meditation group, and her husband George. <br />
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We had tickets to take a school bus from Princeton (right around the corner from my office) to Trenton. <br />
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<b><i>The crowd filing in</i></b><br />
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<b><i>Everyone hold up your signs</i></b><br />
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The first part of the event was held at the War Memorial Theater. We arrived around 9:10 or 9:15am or so for the 10am start, and we got seats third row from the back of the theater. The theater filled up as well as the overflow of 1,000 seats behind the stage. Everyone else had to listen over the loudspeakers outside. Estimates are all over the place, anywhere between 4k and 6k people at this march.<br />
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James from craftspacecontinuum had knit a hat for me. I am allergic to wool so I can't wear it for long, but there was no way I was giving his hat away!!!<br />
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George put on his pussyhat!<br />
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There were almost 2 hours of speeches by a diverse and inclusive group of speakers: Different ages, races, genders, sexual identities, religious backgrounds, and activist groups were represented. This was my first time hearing my congresswoman, Bonnie Watson Coleman, speak. She is the first African American woman to represent NJ in the House, and she is awesome! <span style="background-color: white; font-family: , "helvetica neue light" , "helvetica neue" , "helvetica" , "arial" , "lucida grande" , sans-serif; font-size: 16px;"> "We will not be shut down. We will not be silenced. We will NOT be silenced!"</span><br />
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Then we marched.<br />
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<b><i>"I can't believe I still have to protest this sh*t"</i></b><br />
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The march ended at the State House. My mother worked here during the 60's in a job she *loved*, and it was fun to imagine her walking up the stairs and into the building. There were more speeches, then it wrapped up at 1pm. Francesca then danced to Aretha Franklin on the sidewalk as we waited for the bus to take us back to Princeton.<br />
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<b><i>While waiting for the bus, I asked this guy if I could take a picture.
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The overall vibe was positive, and I never felt in any danger. One of my friends had told me I should write the name and number of a lawyer in sharpie marker on my skin, carry pepper spray and have someone to check in with later that afternoon. I didn't do any of those things, and it wasn't necessary.<br />
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I was instagramming throughout the day as I could with pix and video (my phone and/or the network wasn't working for part of the march) and I really appreciated the overall good comments I received.<br />
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It was amazing to see that there were marches not just in the US but all over the world, including Antarctica. I knew from IG that there was going to be a march in London, but WOW the marches were all over and non-violent.
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The overarching theme was "this march is not the end, it is the beginning." As we have seen over the last 18 days, there is plenty of work to be done. I'm still working out a path forward, but on Valentine's Day I will show you my next bit of craftivism (which I already showed on IG, but not here).<br />
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I made and distributed 64 hats at my Pussyhat Factory (I removed the throat plate on my sewing machine and vacuumed it, and vacuumed my serger, and vacuumed my cutting mat--so much pink fleece lint everywhere after sewing up 8 yards of fleece). <br />
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I know of at least 3 people who made hats because I had been instagramming them in the weeks leading up to the march, which was awesome! And the Pussyhat Project received some donations because of hats I made for others, yay! <br />
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Don't doubt the power and influence you have and the inspiration that you are--these little ripples can add up, even for an introverted hermit like myself.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31961472043/in/dateposted/" title="Photo from IG friend kayeightysews"><img alt="Photo from IG friend kayeightysews" height="265" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/757/31961472043_5d315b8ee6_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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I have received many pictures of people wearing my hats in Atlanta, NYC, DC and of course Trenton, but I am too overwhelmed to get them into a collage here. Above is one of my favorites, by Anna Christina's daughter (kayeightysews on IG), during the NYC march.<br />
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Be well, my friends, be well.Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-88533785554789038712017-01-07T13:55:00.000-05:002017-01-07T14:00:10.192-05:00Crazy. Floral. Pants! Jalie Eleonore 3461<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/32128654996/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20170102_102630_627"><img alt="IMG_20170102_102630_627" height="320" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5587/32128654996_deddb6e6e7_z.jpg" width="320" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>Oh hey! Happy New Year!</i></b><br />
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Normally I blog all my makes in order, but today I want to skip ahead to what I made at the tail end of my vacation time. I'm sure you can understand why...<br />
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Soooo....when I bought the Jalie pattern to make the red jeans for PR weekend Chicago, the cover picture included floral pants. I am normally a solids and textures kind of gal. Not really into the florals. <br />
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<b><i>My New Years Eve included sewing and sugar.</i></b><br />
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However, there was something about this combination of slim legged pants and florals on the cover that made me want Crazy. Floral. Pants!!!<br />
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I wanted a smaller scale floral in stretch twill or denim, and this fabric from Kashi (Metro Textiles) in Sept fit the bill. <br />
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I made them <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/06/fitting-jalie-eleonore-3461-to-my-pear.html">just like the red pants</a> but with functional front pockets, see below. They went together pretty quick, though I basted them together first just in case, as this fabric seems slightly less stretchy than the other fabrics I've used, but they turned out to be fine...though in the calves I used 1/4" SA instead of 3/8" to grant some extra room.<br />
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They grew a little in the thigh as I wore them during the day, and maybe a little in the waist too. I'm probably going to leave it as-is. For the first time ever, one of my "Vacuuming the Lawn" labels was scratchy and driving me crazy so I'm probably going to remove it or sew over the scratchy edge with a satin stitch or something....<br />
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I added functional front pockets to this version. It is really easy to draft the pieces, though next time I will make them deeper. I already had the basics of front pocket construction down as I had taken Jennifer Stern's professional jeans construction class at the ASE. <br />
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I was lucky to have this salmon colored poly blend broadcloth from ~20 years ago in my stash to use as the pocket lining.<br />
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I pattern matched the back pockets, which is a super easy thing to do as no seams are involved.<br />
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I traced the pocket pattern piece onto Swedish tracing paper, including the fold line for the upper portion of the pocket, aligned the fold line with the pocket placement line on the cut out fabric, then outlined some of the flowers with a pencil (as I was afraid pen might bleed through to the fashion fabric.)<br />
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I then found the pattern on the fabric, cut it out, and sewed it on. (yes, the pocket is different in the picture above and below).<br />
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There will be a matching backpack...<br />
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Outside<br />
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<b><i>These were some test shots for outside, pussyhat and all. I needed to move the camera down but it was way too cold so I brought the photo shoot indoors.</i></b><br />
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I'm probably going to undo the entire top portion of <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/12/jalie-3461-eleonores-in-stretch.html">the stretch velveteen pants</a> I made last month. As I was making them, I suddenly felt like the waistband was too tight and I sewed with smaller SA and did not pull the back of the elastic as tight as I did on the red pair. Well guess what, they are too loose in the waistband. If I'm going to take the waistband off, I might as well add real front pockets right? And fix the angle of the CB seam? And remove some of the excess fabric from the CF ? Might as well right???<br />
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But for now, I'm back to the Pussyhat Factory. I want to sew 32 hats this weekend. <br />
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In other news, my Great Aunt Iris turned 101 on New Year's Day so we took some selfies. When she saw herself on my screen, she said she looked old but that I had good teeth. :)
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Be well! Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-72833479296439756402016-12-31T19:47:00.001-05:002016-12-31T19:55:35.745-05:00Kyle's 2016 Sewing Year in Review Extravaganza<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31171557644/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161231_172258"><img alt="IMG_20161231_172258" height="400" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5685/31171557644_b5b51e200e_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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It's my usual New Year's Eve rush to write my sewing year in review!<br />
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First, let's start with what I've sewn/done during my winter vacation but have not blogged as shown above:<br />
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<ul>
<li>Finished a Jalie fleece started the weekend before my vacation</li>
<li>McCall's Echino Kokka French Terry sweatshirt</li>
<li>Creatively cut apart a large man's cotton thrift shop sweater and used Simplicity 1283 to make it fit me.</li>
<li>Used S1283 to make this lace sleeved shirt. Fabric was sent to me by goodmombadmom</li>
<li>Used a hack of S1283 and the remnants from the long sleeved shirt to make a tank</li>
<li>Made 16 pussyhats (8 in this beetroot tie dye and 8 that aren't pictured in hot pink). I have a crazy goal of making at least 48 of them before the end of next weekend.</li>
<li>Handstitched this Christmas cactus ornament and hung it on my Christmas cactus</li>
<li>Went to NYC to buy some supplies and visited Swatch at Mood Fabrics. He was totally conked out.</li>
<li>Cut out these crazy floral pants. Yes, that's right, me, the solids and texture woman. Yes, me, I am going to make Crazy. Floral. Pants.</li>
</ul>
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<b><u>Here are my favorites:</u></b></div>
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Favorite item all year: the StyleArc Stacie Jean Jacket
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Close up view</div>
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Favorite tank, which I wore, with one of my favorite shrugs from last year, for our professional photo day at work (I received permission from the photographer to use this photo across social media)<br />
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Favorite sweatshirt
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Or maybe this is my favorite sweatshirt
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Favorite backpack
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30252711076/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Front angled"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Front angled" height="400" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8271/30252711076_e43f4934cd_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Contest winning bag
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Favorite leather bag
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<b><u>What I've machine sewn this year</u></b></div>
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<ul>
<li>7 tops (includes tanks, tops, shells, sweaters)</li>
<li>2 shrugs</li>
<li>2 jackets</li>
<li>1 fleece</li>
<li>3 sweatshirts</li>
<li>1 sweatshirt dress</li>
<li>4 dresses</li>
<li>2 pants</li>
<li>2 skirts</li>
<li>8 bags</li>
<li>1 pillow</li>
<li>16 fleece hats</li>
<li>some keychains and business card holders</li>
</ul>
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I didn't blog everything. I know of at least one dress and one bag that were not blogged, in addition to everything in the first photo. But, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/vacuumingthelawn/">my entire creative life is on Instagram</a>, all of it!.</div>
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<b><u>What I've hand sewn or hand stitched this year</u></b><br />
<ul>
<li>Sublime Stitching</li>
<ul>
<li>Octopus</li>
<li>Folk Foxes pillow</li>
</ul>
<li>Heidi Boyd</li>
<ul>
<li>Softies</li>
<ul>
<li>Half of the squirrel softies kit</li>
<li>One bird softie</li>
</ul>
<li>Felt Hoops</li>
<ul>
<li>fox</li>
<li>blueberry bears</li>
</ul>
<li>Embroidery kits</li>
<ul>
<li>2 chicks</li>
<li>squirrels</li>
</ul>
<li>The 7 ornaments in the Woodland Animals Ornament kit</li>
</ul>
<li>Paulson</li>
<ul>
<li>Red coat ornament</li>
</ul>
<li>Betz White</li>
<ul>
<li>Sewing machine ornament</li>
<li>Christmas cactus ornament</li>
</ul>
<li>Mollie Makes</li>
<ul>
<li>Love heart hoop</li>
<li>2 foxes in a hoop</li>
</ul>
</ul>
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<b><u>Dabbling with Quilting. </u></b></div>
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I'm not a quilter but I tried it a little...</div>
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<ul>
<li>Mollie Makes potholder and coasters</li>
<li>Fancy Fox II, just the top of the pillow size.</li>
</ul>
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<b><u>Drawing</u></b></div>
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<div>
<ul>
<li>I've never been able to draw realistically, but I did enjoy the Creativebug draw a day challenges in January, March and July. They got me to see that drawing is not just about drawing realistically, that there are other styles of drawing too, ones that I can do. Thanks, Craft Space Continuum, for getting me into the drawing!</li>
</ul>
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<b><u>New sewing skills</u></b></div>
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<div>
<ul>
<li>lined skirt with a kickpleat (not that I'd remember how to do that now--I'd have to go back to my blog post)</li>
<li>leather bag and keychain techniques, including making a tassel keychain (so easy!)</li>
<li>how to install rivets, purse feet, and bag bling</li>
</ul>
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<b><u>Contest wins </u></b><br />
After entering 10 contests total in my sewing career, I won:</div>
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<div>
<ul>
<li>2nd place PR accessories contest at PR weekend</li>
<li>1st place PR handbag contest. Definitely a highlight of my sewing career! I've wanted to win a contest for a while now.</li>
</ul>
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<b><u>Sewing meetups</u></b></div>
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<div>
<ul>
<li>MPB Winter Frolic, NYC, March</li>
<li>PR weekend, Chicago, May</li>
<li>MPB Day, NYC, August</li>
<li>Lisa from As I Said, Philly, August</li>
<li>Antoinette, NYC, September</li>
<li>James from Craft Space Continuum, and Tomasa from Sew Much Fashion, NYC, November</li>
<li>Antoinette, Austin, December</li>
<li>Leslie from The Seasoned Homemaker, Austin, December</li>
<li>I went to NYC 7 times in total, for meetups or on my own</li>
</ul>
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<b><u>Calendar</u></b></div>
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<div>
<ul>
<li>I put together a calendar of 12 of the bags I made, which was a total hoot for me for the most part, but was also a total and utter bomb at the office white elephant party, ugh.</li>
</ul>
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<b><u>Store closures</u></b></div>
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<div>
<ul>
<li>Paron, NYC, Sept--I will miss your curated collection, how every bolt was labeled with origin, fiber content, price, the mirrors in your store so I could hold the fabric up to me to see how it looked on me, your amazing collection of sweater knits....</li>
<li>City Quilter, NYC, Oct (but they are still selling online)--you always felt like a place of inspiration even though I'm not a quilter. The CQ was where I originally discovered the Heidi Boyd kits</li>
<li>Stitch Lab, Austin, potentially Feb 2017--another place of inspiration, love that little Craftsman style house full of goodness. I said goodbye in Dec but they recently posted on IG that there is hope that it will survive--fingers crossed!</li>
</ul>
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<b><u>Goals last year/this year</u></b></div>
</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Last year, and the year before, and the year before that, I said I should make a denim jean jacket, and this year, after 3 years of thinking about it, I finally made it!</li>
<li>I also said last year that I should make some underwear. I didn't make any UW after all, but I did organize all my lingerie elastic during my sewing room reorg in the summer</li>
<li>For next year, I'd like to make some more pants, maybe jeans, and another jacket. And sometime I'd like to learn more about fabrics--like being able to identify the different types on sight.</li>
</ul>
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<b><u>General sewing navel gazing</u></b></div>
</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>I feel like I reached a new level with my sewing this year, especially with the use of leather and the amount of topstitching in my jean jacket. What am I now? Advanced intermediate? </li>
<li>I am starting to see the benefits of experience (or just flat out getting older, however you want to spin it)--and also appreciate those benefits. I am a better sewist than I was when I was 12, 25 or 35. I am more perfectionistic than ever, but I'm also more patient and I have way better tools than I did at any of those ages (cue that line from Fried Green Tomatoes: "I'm older and I have more insurance"). 10 years ago, my sewing success rate was around 50% or less, and now it's more like 75-80%. It looks way more professional IMHO too.</li>
<li>Hand stitching continues to be a way for me to feel creative each day without the effort involved in garment or bag making, and if I mess it up, it's easy to fix or start over because the scale is smaller.</li>
<li>I still wish I had the time to do the same project several times in a row--like making 5 lined skirts with kickpleats, one after the other, to really get the technique down, but with a full time job and so many things I want to make, that's not going to happen</li>
<li>I am utterly and thoroughly addicted to Instagram. I have met so many seamsters that way!</li>
</ul>
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<b><u>Post-election navel gazing</u></b></div>
</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>The election did not go as I expected it to go (massive understatement there), but I'm getting involved in ways I haven't before. </li>
<ul>
<li>At the gym there is PB and J sandwich making event every Nov. In past years, I donated supplies but this year was the first year I actually made the sandwiches. We made 510 sandwiches and packaged them with snacks and juice into bags for the Trenton Area Soup Kitchen. My job was slapping peanut butter on bread for 2 hours, and it felt good to actually do something. </li>
<li>This week I started making pussyhats for the Pussyhat Project, to be worn at the <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/12/hats-for-womens-march-on-washington.html">Women's March on Washington</a>. So far I've sewn 16 hats and have a goal of at least 48 hats before the end of next weekend. Thank you to those who commented that you're also going to make hats too! Hurrah! Spread the word!!</li>
<li>I realize, my contributions above are really, really small, but it is a start.</li>
</ul>
<li>I really loved all your comments on my post about <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/11/part-1-devastation-part-2-doris.html">Devastation and Doris</a>. I should update the post to note, that while my father originally told me Doris passed the day after I saw her, she actually died the day I saw her, so I saw her in the last 8 or so hours of her life. She was 99. I attended her funeral, and it was amazing. Doris outlived her husband and both of her children, so her grandchildren talked about her life. They talked about her positivity, and how she liked to give the "thumbs up". She was a nurse for 40 years, and she took care of soldiers returning home from WWII. Apparently she made amazing cookies too, and I love it when women are remembered for things like that.</li>
<li>I highly recommend subscribing to and reading <a href="http://www.rockontinyrebel.com/blog/">ATP's blog</a>. She has an almost-daily post with tips and recommendations on what to do now going forward post-election. Not all of her articles are on the blog though; for the early ones, you'll need to <a href="http://us5.campaign-archive2.com/home/?u=045d6be76ba4827974a6e08c2&id=b8c2298090">read the archive </a>(highly recommend).</li>
</ul>
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So, congratulations if you made it this far! Hope to see you in 2017, maybe at PR weekend in mid-May in NYC? Maybe at Sew Expo in Puyallup in March? (I'm seriously considering that one). Maybe on Instagram or on your blog? </div>
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Go forth, dear sewing ones, go forth. My best self honors your best self. </div>
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And of course, be well! </div>
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Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-90022172707256770652016-12-29T22:45:00.001-05:002016-12-29T22:51:02.055-05:00Hats for the Women's March on Washington<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31911213526/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161228_204349_716"><img alt="IMG_20161228_204349_716" height="320" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/270/31911213526_3c2d55df80_z.jpg" width="320" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<h1 style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-family: proxima-nova, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" title="Edited">I don't knit or crochet so I was excited to see <a href="https://static1.squarespace.com/static/583078bc197aea0348039d7e/t/58616719ebbd1af27ce3f105/1482778395943/PussyHat+Simple+Fleece+Pattern.pdf">the instructions for sewing hats,</a> called pussyhats, for the Women's March on Washington, DC by <a class="notranslate" href="https://www.instagram.com/craftivistchi/" style="border: 0px; color: #003569; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">@craftivistchi</a>! </span></h1>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31136873063/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20161228_180548"><img alt="IMG_20161228_180548" height="320" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/533/31136873063_57a566b9c5_z.jpg" width="240" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<h1 style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-family: proxima-nova, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" title="Edited"><br /></span></h1>
<h1 style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-family: proxima-nova, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" title="Edited">I tweaked it a bit and made the rectangle 19" long so the hat covers my ears with a 1" hem. Make sure the direction with the stretch goes around your head otherwise it won't work (so you'll need to buy at least a half yard of fleece, or a little more if you want it to cover your ears like mine). I didn't tack the cat ears because they seem to form naturally like the knitted versions. </span></h1>
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<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" title="Edited">My fleece is wide enough to get 4 hats out of 5/8 of a yard (or if you want to make your hats shorter, then you can get 4 hats out of a half yard.)</span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" title="Edited"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" title="Edited">This fleece is from Joann's and is called "</span>Anti Pill Fleece Fabric-Beetroot Tonal Tie Dye" <a href="http://www.joann.com/anti-pill-fleece-print-beetroot-tonal-tie-dye/12744157.html#q=beetroot&start=2">on their website.</a></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31909842456/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20161228_190832"><img alt="IMG_20161228_190832" height="320" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/548/31909842456_35114b20ef_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<h1 style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-family: proxima-nova, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" title="Edited"><br /></span></h1>
<h1 style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-family: proxima-nova, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" title="Edited">I sewed 8 hats last night out of 1.125 yards of this fleece in about 75 minutes assembly line style and that's with legit seam finishes on the serger, tucking serger thread tails, serging the raw edges and twin needle stitching the hem. Going to stitch up another 8 in hot pink, maybe more! </span></h1>
<h1 style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-family: proxima-nova, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" title="Edited"><br /></span></h1>
<h1 style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-family: proxima-nova, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" title="Edited">Go to <a href="http://pussyhatproject.com/">pussyhatproject.com</a> for details about the march, why pink cat hats, and why this is important. I plan on mailing mine to the address on the website--they are due by Jan 14. They will have a pickup point for marchers who don't have a hat to obtain a hat. <a class="notranslate" href="https://www.instagram.com/joymacdonell/" style="border: 0px; color: #003569; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;">@joymacdonell</a> has <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BNzOBW6hexe/?taken-by=joymacdonell">a video on how to hand knit the hat</a> if you prefer. </span></h1>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31137892663/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20161228_191526"><img alt="IMG_20161228_191526" height="400" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5496/31137892663_b224b8747b_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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The styrofoam head is smaller than a human head, or at least it is smaller than mine!<br />
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Anyway, this is a really easy way for seamsters to get involved, highly recommend! <br />
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Be well!
Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-83120744749774452222016-12-27T21:48:00.000-05:002016-12-27T21:48:24.560-05:00VTL Calendar Giveaway Winners<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31778338612/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161227_214103_000"><img alt="IMG_20161227_214103_000" height="400" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/654/31778338612_3e009cdb2c_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<h1 style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-family: proxima-nova, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Thank for all your kind and funny comments to make me smile and laugh! </span></h1>
<h1 style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-family: proxima-nova, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Congratulations to the following blog commenting winners! I picked my 5 favorite comments and a bonus winner:</span></h1>
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<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">MaryEllen, Faye Lewis, AngelatheCreativeDiva, Regina C Dee, jsews, and Pencil Girl. </span></h1>
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<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><br /></span></h1>
<h1 style="background-color: white; border: 0px; font-family: proxima-nova, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Please send me your mailing address by 7am Dec 30 at kdburkhardt at yahoo.com and I'll ship 'em out, otherwise another winner will be selected. The IG winners are already posted on IG. </span></h1>
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<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Thanks for playing!</span></h1>
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<span style="border: 0px; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">Be well!</span></div>
Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-59428556319078223872016-12-25T19:41:00.000-05:002016-12-25T19:41:19.180-05:00Woodland Animals Ornament kit by Heidi Boyd Crafts <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31876728915/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161225_193022"><img alt="IMG_20161225_193022" height="300" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5334/31876728915_a27d2f98f5_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Merry Christmas! I bought the Woodland Animals Ornament kit by Heidi Boyd Crafts just for the fox, but I wound up stitching them all....all the animals and the fungus (the mushroom) too. :) If you follow me on Instagram, you saw I started the fox right before Thanksgiving and finished the last ornament this week.<br />
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The kit came with the felt, twine, beads, pins, a needle, floss, and pre-cut flowers and 2 circles for the owl's eyes (you have to cut out the rest of the felt pieces yourself, using a separate PDF pattern). I did wind up switching up some of the background colors for felt I bought at Stitch Lab in Austin earlier this month. And there's not enough felt with the kit if you want to cut a second background layer to hide your stitching--which the perfectionist in me totally wants.<br />
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I got into a rhythm with them--cut out the pieces, arrange and stitch. By the fourth ornament, I decided to stitch directly onto a rough cut piece of felt, and then cut around it, instead of cutting the background out before stitching. That way if my animal shifted, I could cut it to still have a nice border around the animal.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31695061026/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20161218_201626"><img alt="IMG_20161218_201626" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/505/31695061026_d443693ee4_z.jpg" width="350" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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stitch onto rough cut felt
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31732871685/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20161218_201838"><img alt="IMG_20161218_201838" height="400" src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5811/31732871685_cf83643ce6_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Cut around it with pinking shears (I hadn't used pinking shears in forever!)
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31359723640/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20161218_201854"><img alt="IMG_20161218_201854" height="400" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/584/31359723640_25f5e5b686_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Layer it on a second layer of felt.
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I used tape to temporarily join the two layers so they wouldn't shift too much as I cut the second layer, trying to get the pinking to be in exactly the same location as the front.<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31617336511/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161218_203444"><img alt="IMG_20161218_203444" height="400" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/702/31617336511_cb1b0293c0_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Then I removed the tape and used the running stitch to stitch the two layers together along the perimeter, stitching the twine hanger to the ornament at the appropriate position. This second layer hides the stitching on the first layer (except for the running stitches of course!)
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30984705803/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161221_203551_074"><img alt="IMG_20161221_203551_074" height="400" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/1/276/30984705803_6264edf7c1_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Close-up pic of the 7 ornaments in the kit, but the sewing machine is from a Betz White PDF (stitched/glued this year), a handstitched Mollie Makes "deer head on bauble" from last year, and an A. Paulson red coat ornament, also handstitched this year.
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31503347210/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161225_124441"><img alt="IMG_20161225_124441" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/263/31503347210_73b7d8b771_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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The full effect, after I opened presents this morning...should have taken this long range view before opening presents!
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31503497050/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20161225_181334_637"><img alt="IMG_20161225_181334_637" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5470/31503497050_67cacc5ff8_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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The Betz White Christmas cactus ornament, stitched/glued this weekend, hanging from my Christmas cactus. My note to self is that craft glue only dries clear in the places where it wasn't overly used. If I used a lot of it, it dried white and then I spent a lot of time trying to peel it off, ultimately taking part of the felt with it.
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31639411082/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20161221_115212"><img alt="IMG_20161221_115212" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/465/31639411082_77485a4740_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Red berries<br />
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Holly!
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Merry Christmas y'all! <br />
And a reminder, if you'd like to win a Vacuuming the Lawn 2017 bag calendar, enter <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/12/vacuuming-lawn-calendar-giveaway.html">here</a>. You have until Tuesday morning at 7am EST to enter.<br />
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Be well!Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-72565024752301262442016-12-20T04:58:00.000-05:002016-12-20T04:58:02.614-05:00Vacuuming the Lawn Calendar Giveaway!<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31759599755" title="IMG_20161220_030144"><img alt="IMG_20161220_030144" height="300" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/1/653/31759599755_f77a456898_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>Introducing the Vacuuming the Lawn 2017 Bag Calendar</i></b><br />
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Would you like to win this 5" x 10" desk calendar? Every month features a different bag that I've stitched.<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31722548076" title="IMG_20161220_030243"><img alt="IMG_20161220_030243" height="229" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/570/31722548076_2cd569f57a_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>Miss February</i></b><br />
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<b><i>Miss March</i></b><br />
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The quality of my photos degrades as the year goes on, but it's still fun!<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31387593080" title="IMG_20161220_034352"><img alt="IMG_20161220_034352" height="228" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/419/31387593080_ff8e0a7f4f_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>Mr. December</i></b><br />
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So if you want to win this calendar, please leave a comment on this post by 7am EST on 12/27/16 that:<br />
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<li>Makes me laugh</li>
<li>-or- makes me smile</li>
<li>-or- describes why you need this calendar in your life </li>
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Sometime after 7am EST on 12/27/16, I will select 5 winners from the comments on this blog post and 5 different winners from the comments on the related post on Instagram. I will announce the winners here on my blog and on IG by 11:59pm EST that day. If you win on the blog, you'll have til 7am EST on 12/30/16 to email me your mailing address, otherwise another winner will be selected. Calendars will be shipped by USPS First Class mail. This giveaway is open world-wide, though please note the weeks on these calendars start on Sunday, not Monday.</div>
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Thank you for all of your support and kind comments over the years!!<br />
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Good luck and be well!</div>
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Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-85229713023618564292016-12-17T21:24:00.001-05:002016-12-18T09:11:54.375-05:00Jalie 3461 Eleonores in stretch velveteen<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31237445890/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161212_205115"><img alt="IMG_20161212_205115" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/408/31237445890_fa0b02091d_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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I made the Jalie 3461 Eleonores (stretch pull on jeans with faux front pockets and faux fly) <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/06/fitting-jalie-eleonore-3461-to-my-pear.html">back in May, in red</a>. Now that the temps have dropped, I wanted to make a pair in stretch velveteen. I went into the stash last weekend, and emerged with this dark midnight blue fabric. Purchased during that brief period of time when I actually labeled my fabric, it's 3 yards from Chic Fabrics, circa Nov 2013, for $3 a yard. This fabric was more on the order of 45" wide, so unlike my Jalies in May, 1.5 yards would not be enough. 3 yards was plenty. I had 3 other velveteen pieces in stash, but two pieces were not stretch and the other piece that was stretch was not long enough to make pants.<br />
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I wrote extensively about making the red Jalies in May. All the gory details are <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/06/fitting-jalie-eleonore-3461-to-my-pear.html">in this post.</a> If you are a pear shape and want to make these pants, I highly recommend reading that post (I have a 10" difference between my waist and hips). If you are a rectangle, don't bother. The pants will most likely fit you right out of the envelope with little tweaking.<br />
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This shot makes me laugh but there you go--functional back pockets!<br />
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Since I already had the curved yoke that I made last time, I forged right ahead. I had to make the waistband 3x to get it just right. My advice to myself for next time is when I try on the pants before putting the waistband on, make sure the fabric of the top of the pants is against my body, all the way around my body...ultimately I did take out a 3/4" pinch from the top at the CB seam grading to nothing where the yoke meets the rest of the pants. When I tried pinching out some of the excess at the side seam, it created a really ugly lumpy effect.<br />
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I really should fix the pattern to add more width to the fabric below the knee on the front and subtract an equal amt from the back...but I didn't!<br />
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It is really hard to photograph dark fabric. Some of these photos have a filter applied, and some do not. <br />
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This fabric does relax a bit during wearing, but it's not overly relaxed.<br />
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Back pockets during construction<br />
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Faux front pocket during construction.<br />
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Above I'm wearing them with my "Muppets" shirt--a Sewaholic Renfrew <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2014/02/my-third-sewaholic-renfrew.html">from a few years back</a>.<br />
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So, they were comfy enough that I wore them twice this week and I will enjoy wearing them all winter. It is really nice to wear "complete" me-made outfits and by making pants I have expanded my winter options. I still have a hankering to make the Eleonores in stretch floral, but that is kind of a tall order, especially when I am really picky about florals--I want a small scale floral. (ETA: I want to make them in teal stretch velveteen with excellent recovery too--if I can ever find it).<br />
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I really wanted to get a picture of me and my Eleonores in front of this holly bush on campus but I didn't have my tripod and there was no one around to take pix...<br />
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The full moon after the gym on Tuesday night.<br />
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This was on Thursday. After last winter's freezy bits, I decided to buy a "real" cold weather coat for when it's under 40F, and this totally fit the bill. I look like I'm wearing a comforter, but it is warm and has features that make a difference, like cuffs inside the sleeves to keep the cold air from creeping in and a ginormous hood.<br />
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Last night there was snow and ice...which formed these mini-icicles outside.<br />
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I brought my hibiscus in a few months back to see if I can coax it to live through the winter. It is dropping its leaves pretty fast, but decided to bloom today, awesome! <br />
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One more week til I'm on vacation for 11 days--I can't wait!<br />
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I'm going to have a special giveaway starting on Tuesday--please check back then!
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Be well!Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-28479573365496449232016-11-26T17:03:00.000-05:002016-11-26T18:56:14.781-05:00Red patent leather tote<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30889412300/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20161126_140944"><img alt="IMG_20161126_140944" height="400" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5711/30889412300_0919bc1f84_b.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Thank you for your comments and support on <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/11/part-1-devastation-part-2-doris.html">my last post</a>--I really enjoyed reading them, and how we support each other. Thank you!<br />
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<b><i>Front, no tassel</i></b><br />
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<b><i>Back</i></b><br />
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<b><i>Inside</i></b><br />
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Dad and I didn't celebrate Thanksgiving until today, which meant that Thanksgiving Day and Black Friday were total play days for me! And of course "play" means "sewing"!<br />
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I bought this red patent pig leather from Fishman's Fabrics during PR weekend in Chicago this year. When I bought the leather, I had not sewn with leather before except for a hands-on workshop I took with Kenneth King at the ASE in 2014. I found those notes this summer, and did some more research into working with leather, which resulted in the aqua lamb leather bag I made at the end of July--copious details are <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/07/my-first-leather-bag-from-handmade-chic.html">in this blog post</a>. I have used that bag a lot, but I had not interfaced the handles and they have stretched significantly. So when I made the Blue Calla Boronia bag for the PR contest, I fused interfacing to the handles. Those handles did stretch just slightly, like 1/8", but you know I notice those things! So this time I interfaced the handles with buckram, that I bought at Kashi's. I'm thinking they are not going to stretch at all but I will report back.<br />
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My main leather advice (after making 2 full-leather bags and one partial leather) is:<br />
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<li>Use a new rotary blade and made as continuous a cut as you can (quilting rulers really help)</li>
<li>Use a fresh leather needle (size 18 for this project) for the main bag sewing and yet another fresh leather needle when it's time to stitch the topstitching</li>
<li>Use a teflon foot and put tissue paper that matches the leather between the leather and the machine bed to stop the leather from sticking to the machine.</li>
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<b><u>Planning it out</u></b></div>
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Planning out the rough positioning of the front /back of bag, the upper interior lining and the straps....ballpark idea here which wasn't the final positioning as I wound up initially cutting the handles extra long)<br />
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Everything cut out and lining interfaced. At this point I wasn't sure if i was going to use the 9" white zipper for the interior zipper pocket or cut down the 30" red one....
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<b><u>The exterior</u></b><br />
I wound up using a cutting mat as my template--which was 18.5" long x 14.75" tall. I used a 1/2" seam allowance. This time I boxed the corners so that the result is a 4" box.<br />
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<b><u>The lining</u></b><br />
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The lining is a Liberty of London Xante Sunbeam cotton voile that I bought from Mood specifically to coordinate with this leather. I interfaced it with interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply to beef it up a bit. I only had the light proweft in stash but would have preferred to use the medium.<br />
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<b><u>Patch pocket</u></b></div>
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I cut the pocket 8" long by 6" high, then folded over the top 1" and stitched down.<br />
Then I applied Wonder Tape around the three edges, peeled it off and centered it on the lining.<br />
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I used this silver pen (purchased at SIL Thread in NYC) that writes on this leather to draw the stitching line and mark the pivots for the corners. This pen happens to wipe off the patent leather with a wet cloth, so it is easy to remove the markings afterward--but always test first!<br />
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I stitched a triangle at the upper right and left corners for security.<br />
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<b><u>The zipper pocket</u></b><br />
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And I added an interior zipper pocket using <a href="http://emmalinebags.blogspot.com/2012/01/how-to-sew-zipper-pocket-tutorial.html">my favorite tutorial.</a><br />
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I had a double-pull "girl with the ponytail" 30" zipper custom made at Botani, because I was thinking I was going to use this leather to make a Boronia Bag. But after making the Boronia bag, I doubted that the patent pig leather would survive the "bag birthing" process. So, I shortened the zipper down to 9" in the most wacky way possible, sigh. It is not pretty but it's all hidden by the lining and is functional. And now I have ~19" of the other side of the zipper to use for another project.<br />
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<b><u>Bag Bling and Peltex</u></b><br />
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I applied the bag bling (here you can see what it looks like from the inside--it's like a big clasp) and cut a piece of peltex to fit in the bottom of the bag.<br />
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<b><i>bag bling</i></b><br />
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<b><u>Attaching the lining to the exterior</u></b><br />
I used wonder tape to hold the interior to the exterior....along with a lot of wonder clips<br />
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I topstitched along the top of the bag, and used my 1/4" foot with tape on the bottom to prevent it from sticking to the leather, and with red tissue paper underneath to keep the leather from sticking to the bed of the sewing machine. This was at 3.5, 3.5, 4.8. Honestly I didn't like my first attempt and cut it off then tried again.<br />
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<b><u>The handles</u></b></div>
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Above is how I made the handles, clockwise from upper left:<br />
1) applied three rows of Wonder Tape (WT)<br />
2) removed the adhesive backing and layered on the buckram<br />
3) applied three rows of WT<br />
4) removed the adhesive backing and layered on the other strap<br />
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In between each step I used the brayer (that rubber roller thing ) to flatten out the WT and help it adhere. It also gets any "bubbles" out.<br />
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You can see the thread tails on the left side of the pic....and where I *carefully* unpicked the stitching to shorten them down. You can also see on the right side of the pic how holes made in leather always stay!!!<br />
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The handles were originally 34" long--i made them extra long with the idea that they would extend way down onto the bag yet still have 27" of clearance. I wound up shortening them down to 30" by carefully removing the stitching I had already stitched, moving them out of the way, then used my machine, starting and ending with long thread tails and with the needle in the previously made hole, stitched across (to make it look like I had stitched, pivoted, stitched across, pivoted, stitched back up) using long thread tails on each end and stitching across with the machine, pulling the tails to the back and knotting . They were topstitched using my 1/4" foot at 3.5, 4.0, 6.0. I really had to crank up the tension to get the stitching to look good on the front and back--but somehow they looked the best fro the back!. The thread is regular Coats and Clark thread, color #2250.<br />
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Making a sample (at the top--used red tissue paper between the handle and the machine bed because the patent leather was sticking to the machine bed otherwise) and the two final handles....<br />
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I know I said that last time (with the aqua bag) I wouldn't make the handles as wide, but I did! I cut them 1.5" long and after stitching them, I cut them down so that the stitching is only 1/8" away from the edge. this gets them down to about 1.25" but really I should start with 1.25 and then cut them down to 1".<br />
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<b><u>The rivets</u></b><br />
Instead of sewing the handles into the bag like I did with the aqua bag, I decided to use rivets. <br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30416665754/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161125_144923"><img alt="IMG_20161125_144923" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5323/30416665754_93d395c5a8_b.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Used my silver pen to initially mark the position--too bad i didn't take another pic, I really had a lot of lines to mark the locations!<br />
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I attached the handles to the bag using the small sized double capped rivets from Emmalinebags.com. Since they are double capped, they are pretty on the inside, too. The "handmade (with a bird)" bag bling is also from Emmaline Bags.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30871043470/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20161125_154937"><img alt="IMG_20161125_154937" height="400" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5608/30871043470_d059230d41_b.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Boom! Rivets!
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<b><u>The tassel</u></b><br />
I made a tassel using the instructions from Laura Bennett's Handmade Chic book, but made cut the original rectangle 14" x 4" to result in a longer, wider tassel. However, I'm not sure the bag really needs the tassel, as the tassel obscures the rivets when the bag is upright.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31240355655/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161125_175247"><img alt="IMG_20161125_175247" height="400" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5634/31240355655_42df883f79_h.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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The completed bag!<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30884642930/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161126_092827"><img alt="IMG_20161126_092827" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5343/30884642930_f7da553414_b.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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So I kind of want to make a leather backpack! Not now, but early next year. Well, probably not now. Stay tuned!!<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30438009164/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20161126_163109"><img alt="IMG_20161126_163109" height="400" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5680/30438009164_e0f17a5f99_b.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Be well!<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/31259204315/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20161126_163216"><img alt="IMG_20161126_163216" height="400" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5565/31259204315_4cc8ba04cc_b.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Bye!
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Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com27tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-57410533563407374902016-11-19T16:28:00.000-05:002016-11-19T17:53:20.113-05:00Part 1: Devastation. Part 2: Doris.<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/23814572960/in/dateposted/" title="Iris, me and Doris Rigg"><img alt="Iris, me and Doris Rigg" height="300" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1562/23814572960_f936b49278_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>Me with my Great Aunt Iris (left) on her 100th birthday (1/1/2016) and her best friend Doris (right).</i></b><br />
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I've been feeling devastated since the election results, just like how I felt when my mother died. I try not to use catastrophic language, but it is how I feel. It was shocking and surprising, even though looking back, for both events, the signs were there all along. During the year, I was feeling anxiety that he might win, especially after Brexit. I started donating to Clinton's campaign, the first time I ever directly contributed financially to a political campaign. Ultimately I was comforting myself with the NY Times Election forecast, which put Clinton's chances of winning at 65% at the lowest point during the summer and at 84% on election day. The NYT forecast also included forecasts from other entities, and they all predicted a Clinton win. My dad said that she was going to win and when is my dad ever wrong???<br />
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She lost the electoral college.<br />
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It's like I'm feeling all the stages of grief all at once. I went to work, but I didn't shower for 3 days. Suddenly I felt this power inside me, my 18 year-old feminist self, who chose to attend a women's college, crying and screaming at once, totally outraged at our choice of president-elect. I suppose as much as his supporters feared Clinton, I am fearing the next administration with a Republican controlled house and senate, 2-3 possible Supreme Court appointments, and a person at the helm who has never held public office before and who encourages his supporters to engage in discrimination and violence.<br />
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Out of this feeling of devastation, another feeling emerged: an urge to "do good things". I want to write about one of those good things here.</div>
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My great-aunt Iris has been best friends with Doris for ~75 years. They met when they were nurses in their 20's. I know Doris from family parties. While I visit Iris in assisted living from time to time, I had never visited Doris. Last year I called Doris and she said I could visit at any time, but I never did. Post-election, I decided now is the time to get out of my introverted hermit shell and do good things. Last Sunday, I saw Iris in the morning, saw my uncle (who I had not seen since 1999, and was visiting from TN), put flowers on mom's grave, and then surprised Doris with flowers and a visit in the afternoon. She is in a different assisted living facility not far from Iris. </div>
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Doris was SO excited and SO happy to see me. She was SO talkative too! She had a lot she wanted to tell me. She celebrated her 99th birthday in early October, and said she was so pleased I was there, so that I could see a card that someone had sent her--it was so creative and she felt that out of everyone she knew, I would appreciate the creativity of the card the most. She talked to me about other people who had visited her, including one who "used the device that tells you to turn left at the blinker light" (Wouldn't it be fun if Google Maps actually used such terminology?!) </div>
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I brought with me some of the things I had sewn, including the denim jean jacket, the bag from the PR contest and my aqua leather tote, to show her. She loved the bags and wanted to know if chintz fabric still exists.</div>
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The newspaper with a headline about our president-elect was next to her the entire time, but we did not talk about the election. We did talk about being and staying positive. I told her I loved all the things she wrote to me on cards over the years, like "Do what makes you happy", "Keep on keeping on", and "You're a gem!". That last sentiment I frequently used when writing back to her, and when I write to other special people in my life. She said that staying positive is the only way to live. I agree and later I was thinking, I want to do positive things in my community, and donate to causes that will be impacted by the new administration. I can't change the administration, but I can do positive things for those around me and within my community.</div>
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She stood up to hug me goodbye. She said she hated to shoo me out, but that she had some things she needed to do before supper. </div>
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On Monday, I went to NYC to spend the day with my friend James and to have dinner with James and Tomasa. That night, on the bus ride home, my Dad texted me. Doris died that day (Monday). </div>
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Rest in peace, Doris. You're a gem.</div>
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Be well and be kind and be gentle to yourselves and each other. </div>
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Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com27tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-14960178953779955842016-10-27T21:30:00.000-04:002016-10-28T07:10:38.213-04:00I won the Pattern Review Handbag Contest 2016!<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29936292374/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161025_175027"><img alt="IMG_20161025_175027" height="400" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8677/29936292374_d3351d2430_h.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
<i><b>Me and my handbag on Tuesday night.</b></i><br />
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I found out on Tuesday morning (from velosewer, who commented on my IG feed around 7:05am that morning) that <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/blog?s=2225481">I won the Pattern Review Handbag Contest 2016</a>! As I wrote on IG, I am excited, thrilled, and filled with gratitude. Thank you for your support, kind words, encouragement and votes! <br />
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It has been a longtime dream of mine to win first place in a PR contest and I'm so excited that my dream has come true. One of my coworkers asked me how many PR contests I have entered. I counted 10 between the online contests (coat 2008; sewn hat 2009; refashion 2010; activewear 2015; handbag 2016) and in-person contests at PR Day (<a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/search?q=pr+day+2013">LBD in NYC 2013--second place</a>) and PR weekends (badge holder in Chicago 2011, bag in NYC 2012, bag in LA 2015, <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/search?q=binary">accessory in Chicago 2016--second place</a>).<br />
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It's also the perfect early birthday present--my birthday is on Saturday. :) My prize is a $100 credit to the PR site. I will have fun spending it!<br />
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My coworkers have been asking me what my next project is and while I have several ideas percolating (gray shrug, piped pajamas, red patent leather tote, denim dress with contrast topstitching), I'm just enjoying the moment and the win for now!<br />
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The full gallery of all entries sorted by votes <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/ContestGallery.pl?ContestID=260&order=points">is here</a>.<br />
My blog post about my completed bag <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/10/my-entry-for-pr-handbag-contest-blue.html">is here</a>.<br />
And the post with the pix of the bag under construction <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/10/construction-photos-of-blue-calla.html">is here</a>.<br />
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Thank you again for your support, encouragement, and votes! <br />
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Be well!!<br />
<br />Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com51tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-34771375839600053262016-10-19T21:00:00.001-04:002016-10-20T08:34:03.746-04:00Construction photos of the Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag + Voting is Now Open!<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30121710572/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Me Holding the Bag"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Me Holding the Bag" height="400" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5207/30121710572_42c6c53514_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Voting is now open til Oct 24! I would be <b><i>beyond thrilled</i></b> if you would consider voting for my entry in the PR handbag contest. If you've been a PR member (free or paying) for at least 3 months, you can vote. The gallery of all 33 entries<a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/ContestGallery.pl?ContestID=260"> is here</a>.<br />
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Since<a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/10/my-entry-for-pr-handbag-contest-blue.html"> my last post focused mainly on the finished bag photos</a>, I thought I'd show some "construction" photos here.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29921809885/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: the embossed pig leather"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: the embossed pig leather" height="300" src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8040/29921809885_4eeaa0ac22_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Printed the pattern 4x and taped it together....ha ha for printing pages double sided. Here it is on the pig leather from Kashi<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29348711654/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Connector strap samples"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Connector strap samples" height="400" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5068/29348711654_974aab6b3b_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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I made a lot of strap samples before sewing "the real deal"
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29898754332/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Connector strap excitement"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Connector strap excitement" height="400" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7523/29898754332_aed9089d81_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Connector strap assembly line--As far as I can tell, I am the only entrant who used contrasting thread for topstitching on leather (it's gray to match the crosshatch pattern)<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30012700505/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Making sure the straps are 5" apart with a 5" quilting ruler"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Making sure the straps are 5" apart with a 5" quilting ruler" height="400" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8705/30012700505_711e088f6c_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Trick for making sure the connector straps are really 5" apart--used a quilters ruler (which I use a lot in garment sewing) which is 5" and lined up the middle of the ruler with the middle of the fabric
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29718546120/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: I used 0.75" tape to know where to stop stitching"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: I used 0.75" tape to know where to stop stitching" height="400" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7721/29718546120_9e2368fa72_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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How I knew where 3/4" from the edge of the rectangle ring was--with 3/4" scotch tape. Also because the connector is folded around the rectangle ring and then under, I used a scrap of folded leather under the back of the presser foot as a "hump jumper".<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29978783946/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Pulling the thread tails to the back with a hand needle to then tie them off"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Pulling the thread tails to the back with a hand needle to then tie them off" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7571/29978783946_0e5ef75457_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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If I stitched up, over and down on my strap samples, the corner stitching kept popping out, so I stitched up, kept long thread tails, pulled them to the back. Then I stitched down, kept long thread tails, pulled to back. Then I stitched across with long thread tails and pulled to the back. By "pulled them to the back" I mean I threaded the tail on a leather handstitching needle, brought the tail to the back and then tied it off.<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29936843742/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Pellon Flex Foam wonder clipped to the exterior"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Pellon Flex Foam wonder clipped to the exterior" height="400" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8113/29936843742_3925fd714d_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Wonder Clipping the Pellon Flex Foam to the bag.
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29967085231/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: installing foam with a walking foot"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: installing foam with a walking foot" height="400" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8535/29967085231_419065c793_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Walking foot excitment (cue "walk this way" played over and over and over again in my head)
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29939529002/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Exterior construction. Pellon Foam Flex already installed"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Exterior construction. Pellon Foam Flex already installed" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8560/29939529002_afb52f0f72_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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With rivets and feet and bag bling--installing all of that is SUPER easy.<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30075367691/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: this lining didn't work out; not on grain and too thick overall"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: this lining didn't work out; not on grain and too thick overall" height="400" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5491/30075367691_31fa049029_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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The lining that was an utter fail (too thick, heavy, and off grain to boot)
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30192853935/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Lining in stages"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Lining in stages" height="400" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5599/30192853935_7488f05e0e_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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The lining that did work out! Silver quilted brocade with NYC subway map interior zipper pocket of course!<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30165886436/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Making straps"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Making straps" height="400" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8419/30165886436_1aca728b39_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Making straps with a piece of tape on my 1/4" quilter foot so that it doesn't get stuck on the leather<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30166450371/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Rivet installation for the straps"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Rivet installation for the straps" height="400" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8420/30166450371_b8e79f78a7_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Just add more rivets!! and done!<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29615594584/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag ECU straps"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag ECU straps" height="400" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5464/29615594584_c9e7eb0eb4_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
Take shots of the sexy straps
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30252449956/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Purse feet and close up of the "girl with the ponytail" zipper pulls"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Purse feet and close up of the "girl with the ponytail" zipper pulls" height="300" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5705/30252449956_b7a9c21418_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Take photos outside
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29657164683/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Front view"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Front view" height="400" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5603/29657164683_3747dd776e_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Rejoice! The bag is finished! :)
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There are more pix <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/sets/72157671581252483/with/29657164683/">in this Flickr album</a>.<br />
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If you'd like to vote (and have been a member of PR (free or paying) for at least 3 months), the gallery of all 33 entries<a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/ContestGallery.pl?ContestID=260"> is here</a>. Thank you for your support, y'all! I really appreciate you!<br />
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Be well!<br />
<br />Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com31tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-51878089147543289992016-10-13T12:00:00.001-04:002016-10-15T14:33:48.964-04:00My Entry for the PR Handbag Contest: Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30252711076/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="MAYBE angle YES?"><img alt="MAYBE angle YES?" height="400" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8271/30252711076_e43f4934cd_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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I clearly remember one time when I was looking through picture albums with my mom. There were so many pictures of me when I was little--for the standards of that time. She said that my great-grandfather remarked, "She is one well-documented child". And this, my sewing friends, is one well-documented bag! <br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30001812270/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="MAYBE YES FRONT"><img alt="MAYBE YES FRONT" height="300" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5714/30001812270_52f51cbac6_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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I created <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHskF8ifpv">a Flickr album for this bag</a>--it's in reverse chronological order, so if you only want to see the finished photos, they are at the front of the album, with construction pix toward the end. All photos are captioned. Depending on screen size, you may need to scroll down to see the captions. You can use the left and right arrows on your keyboard to quickly move through the photos. Or you can use slideshow mode by clicking on the "toggle slideshow" link in the upper right corner, but you can't see the captions, <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/albums/72157671581252483/show">unless you use this link</a> which launches the old-style Flickr slideshow and click on "Show Info" in the upper right corner.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29606386674/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag On my Shoulder"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag On my Shoulder" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5323/29606386674_fcff4761f1_z.jpg" width="318" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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I've been working on my Pattern Review handbag contest entry since Sept 24, finished the bag on the Oct 9, and <strike>am planning on posting my review by noon tomorrow (Friday Oct 14)</strike>, I <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/128903">posted my official entry tonight</a> (10/13) which is due this Saturday night at 11:59pm EDT.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30172978242/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Composite photo PR # 4"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Composite photo PR # 4" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5834/30172978242_7245324c33_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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The pattern is one I found on Instagram, the Boronia Bowler Bag by Blue Calla. It's a downloadable PDF pattern and I recommend printing out multiple copies so you can tape it full size together and not have to cut on the fold nor trace any pieces. Although I have sewn bags before, this was my first time installing rivets and purse feet, as well as my first time using Pellon Flex Foam, and I will be using all three again! It is super easy to install rivets and purse feet (I used <a href="http://blog.chriswdesigns.com/2011/03/how-to-install-rivets.html">this tutorial</a> recommended on Emmalinebags.com) which gives the bag a professional looking finish. The Flex Foam gives really nice shape and support to the bag without being stiff or heavy. <br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29991188680/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Interior (better?) PR photo #2"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Interior (better?) PR photo #2" height="300" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8269/29991188680_648d55f921_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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I used black pig leather for the bottom and straps, and used a super stable double knit black and gray crosshatch fabric for the exterior, both from Kashi (Metro Textiles in NYC). The interior is a quilted metallic brocade from Mood.com. The interior zipper pocket subway fabric is from The City Quilter. <br />
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Zippers, rectangle rings, and purse feet are all from Botani in NYC, and the rivets and "handmade" tag are from Emmalinebags.com. <br />
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Interfacing is in abundance! The leather and all fabric was interfaced using Fashion Sewing Supply interfacing, and there is also a piece of Pellon Peltex sewn into the bottom of the bag, as well as the Flex Foam attached to the exterior. The Pellon Peltex and Flex Foam were from Joann's.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30160629131/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Handmade Tag"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Handmade Tag" height="400" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5468/30160629131_3e29eb0ca4_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Of course I obsessed over perfecting my gray contrast topstitching!!!<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30254291676/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag PR composite photo # 5"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag PR composite photo # 5" height="400" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7477/30254291676_4a39e6c92d_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Above you can see the Pellon Flex Foam, and my in-progress top-stitching.<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29615594584/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag ECU straps"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag ECU straps" height="400" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5464/29615594584_c9e7eb0eb4_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Topstitched handles<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30287421195/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Strap detailing FOR BLOG"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Strap detailing FOR BLOG" height="300" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8418/30287421195_2fd540a801_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Loving these "girl with a ponytail" zippers!<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29991087140/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Strap Detailing"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Strap Detailing" height="300" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5701/29991087140_53a6d03a7f_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
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Sexy 30" zipper.<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30160974041/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Closed Side View"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Closed Side View" height="400" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5605/30160974041_4934c9259e_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Pocket for my phone<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30202294441/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Patch pocket"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Patch pocket" height="300" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8268/30202294441_bb2e8a0cf4_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Back of the bag <br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29615950144/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Back View Angled"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag Back View Angled" height="400" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5525/29615950144_a150e19b21_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Below are some shots of sewing the bag with the interfacing and lining installed, and then "birthing" the bag through the interior zipper pocket!
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29594583624/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Birthing and other tricky bits"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag: Birthing and other tricky bits" height="400" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7514/29594583624_a19b5f26e2_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Below is the "craftermath" or the aftermath of all my samples that I practiced on during construction of this bag. Practice really does help! And I had to abandon my initial lining choice because it was way too thick, heavy, and off-grain to boot, so I ripped that out and started the lining over with the brocade. Also jeans topstitching thread was way too thick for this project, and I used regular Coats and Clark thread instead. And along the way I accidentally dented my anvil for rivet setting and had to run out to Michael's on Sunday night at 5:30pm before their 7pm closing and hope they had one in stock (they did!)<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29660404084/in/album-72157671581252483/" title="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag : All the practice samples and the lining that I had to rip out because it was too heavy and bulky"><img alt="Blue Calla Boronia Bowler Bag : All the practice samples and the lining that I had to rip out because it was too heavy and bulky" height="300" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8610/29660404084_ddae8f861a_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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All the details about this bag <strike>will be in my PR review which I will link to once I finish writing it and post it </strike> have <a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/128903">now been posted in my PR review</a>! The gallery of handbags currently entered on the PR site<a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/ContestGallery.pl?ContestID=260"> is here</a>. If you are a PR member, (joined PR prior to July 15 of this year), you can vote from Oct 18-24. Both paying and free PR members can vote! <br />
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More pix are in <a href="https://flic.kr/s/aHskF8ifpv">an album for this bag on Flickr</a>--including detailed "in progress" construction photos.<br />
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Be well!<br />
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Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com47tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-14667782116403480932016-10-07T18:07:00.001-04:002016-10-07T18:07:30.892-04:00Epic Jean Jacket Post #6: The Jean Shank Buttons, Drafting a New Facing, and Misc.<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29508424032/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160911_193919"><img alt="IMG_20160911_193919" height="400" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8067/29508424032_03efc30667_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Welcome to the final post about my StyleArc Stacie #epicjeanjacket: The jean shank buttons, drafting a new facing, and other miscellany.<br />
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To apply the jean shank buttons, I overlapped the placket and pushed a pin through the center of the buttonhole, then used chalk to mark the spot on the placket on the other side. I also used a ruler to make sure my shank buttons would be in a consistent row instead of haphazardly placed. After double and triple checking, I used a *really* sharp awl (purchased at SIL Thread) to then make a hole in the placket. I inserted the nail part of the shank underneath and through the hole, then put the jean button on top.<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30063555952/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161007_173450"><img alt="IMG_20161007_173450" height="300" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5598/30063555952_48e003e349_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Since my shank buttons had a compass on them, I made sure North was pointing up, covered the shank button with a cloth and whacked it with a hammer (the base of the nail was on the wooden apple that came with the buttonhole set). Since the shank buttons were flat I didn't worry about denting them. If they were convexly curved I would have had to use the concave side of the rivet setter so as to not dent them.<br />
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At that point I whacked in 8 shank buttons and thought I was done.....took pix, posted on IG, relaxed.<br />
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That night I unbuttoned the jacket and....the bottom button was having trouble unbuttoning. Then the top of that button FELL OFF. It just fell off and left the remainder in the jacket, in such a way that I couldn't pull the shank out. I didn't take a pic of this, I just wanted to FIX IT IMMEDIATELY.<br />
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So....I got out my pliers and cut the remainder off the top, removed the nail and hammered in another one. Huge lesson learned: BE SURE TO BUY EXTRAS!!! If I did not have extras, I would have been totally sunk as Pacific Trimming does not have any more of these shank buttons.<br />
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Another lesson learned is that the shank HAS to be hammered in perpendicular to the jacket--no angles allowed. I'm still trying to figure out the best way of doing that. I can feel that some of my shank buttons are at an angle...but they haven't fallen off yet. I do have a few more extras so I am holding them in reserve, just in case.<br />
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<b><u>Some Misc:</u></b><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30143490416/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20161007_173116"><img alt="IMG_20161007_173116" height="300" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5264/30143490416_6e05352bc2_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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1. I used the Islander directions to burrito the back yoke. The Style Arc directions only have one back yoke cut, but I think cutting two looks really nice. I sewed my label onto one of the yokes first before sewing it all together--that way the stitching for my label does not appear on the outside of the jacket.<br />
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2. I added this little loop so that I can hang up my jacket in a locker at the gym. I made this little loop by cutting a strip of fabric, folding the long raw edges to the middle, folding that in half long ways again, and then stitched along the edge. I then sewed on the loop before attaching the collar.<br />
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3. I drafted a new facing that started at the shoulder seam and went all the way down the CF. This is because somehow my collar wound up 1" too short on either side to reach the facing that the pattern came with, which only over lapped the collar a little bit. After watching the Craftsy class again, I preferred the Islander method because it completely encloses the collar pieces. After installation I did have to sew down the facing indiscreetly under the collar so keep it from flipping out.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30093651541/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161007_173811"><img alt="IMG_20161007_173811" height="400" src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8409/30093651541_47a0e0cb66_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>On the left:</i></b> the original facing piece<br />
<b><i>In the middle:</i></b> I taped the front CF piece to the front yoke, overlapping seam allowances<br />
<b><i>On the right: </i></b> I then used Swedish tracing paper to make a new facing that would go all the way up to the shoulder seam. I gave it extra length at the shoulder seam and at the bottom for SA and "just in case"<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/28834171474/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160904_165546"><img alt="IMG_20160904_165546" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8190/28834171474_f0eeab75e3_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>One side of the facing is installed.
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30178244835/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20161007_173257"><img alt="IMG_20161007_173257" height="400" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5625/30178244835_15f46259ed_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>What it looked like after the buttonholes were installed too.</i></b><br />
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Drafting the new facing is something I never would have done 5 years ago, but it was so easy and really elevated the jacket, besides finishing off the CF and the collar nicely.<br />
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4. I used the Gertie directions for installing the bottom band.<br />
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5. I serged as I went--using purple serger thread. I have come SO FAR in my sewing over the past 10 years when Project Runway got me into sewing again. 5 years ago, the insides of my clothes were not so great, but now I am proud to show off the inside of my jacket too. I don't have anything to hide!<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29560953111/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160912_190330"><img alt="IMG_20160912_190330" height="300" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8176/29560953111_3406c76ce5_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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So, there you have it, achievement unlocked!! A 3 year old dream of mine has finally come true. When I first sewed it, it was still too warm to wear it but lately it is cooler in the mornings and even some days, and I have really enjoyed wearing it. It really feels like a delight to have this jacket and I feel really proud of myself. The fabric is wearing really nicely--it doesn't get overly wrinkled and since it has stretch it is comfy to wear.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30016215882/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161005_082618"><img alt="IMG_20161005_082618" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8064/30016215882_f8b090eef4_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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A selfie of my self-stitched day: In my office on Wed morning, wearing my StyleArc Stacie jean jacket, Sewaholic Davie dress, self-made elastic belt and metallic bag (both unblogged). My self-stitched sashiko is hanging on my office wall. It's amazing how adding one key piece like this opens up a whole world of self-made ensembles.<br />
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Lots of pictures of me wearing the jacket are in <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/09/epic-jean-jacket-post-1-stylearc-stacie.html">this post</a><br />
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<b><u>Links to all posts:</u></b><br />
Post #1: <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/09/epic-jean-jacket-post-1-stylearc-stacie.html">Choosing the Pattern, Cutting it Out, etc (lots of pix of me wearing it)</a><br />
Post #2: <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/09/epic-jean-jacket-post-2-stylearc-stacie.html">The Topstitching</a><br />
Post #3: <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/09/epic-jean-jacket-post-3-turning-faux.html">Turning Faux Pocket Flaps into Real Pocket Flaps</a><br />
Post #4: <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/10/epic-jean-jacket-post-4-fitting-sleeves.html">Fitting the Sleeves and Sewing the Cuffs</a><br />
Post #5: <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/10/epic-jean-jacket-post-5-buttonholes.html">The Buttonholes</a><br />
Post #6: This post you're reading now.<br />
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If you follow me on Instagram, you know <a href="https://www.instagram.com/vacuumingthelawn/">my next big project is in progress</a>: my entry for the Pattern Review handbag contest! It is due on Oct 15!!<br />
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Be well!Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-54657288312533542382016-10-05T21:48:00.002-04:002016-10-05T22:12:46.788-04:00Epic Jean Jacket Post #5: The Buttonholes<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29617703655/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160911_163003"><img alt="IMG_20160911_163003" height="400" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8146/29617703655_330a077674_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
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This is the penultimate post for my Epic Jean Jacket, focusing on the buttonholes!<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30028418612/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161005_214223"><img alt="IMG_20161005_214223" height="400" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5172/30028418612_09f389d541_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
I used my BabyLock Soprano to stitch the buttonholes on the jacket. The Soprano has a few different buttonhole styles, so after examining my 3 RTW jean jackets, and making a few samples, I went with the tapered keyhole style just like them.<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30107791386/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161005_212658"><img alt="IMG_20161005_212658" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8404/30107791386_7f36e69019_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Before attaching the pocket flaps to the jacket, I stitched the buttonholes after everyone on IG agreed it is better to do that step at that point before actually attaching the flaps, even though the Islander and the Gertie instructions said to wait til the end.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/28815870383/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160903_211841"><img alt="IMG_20160903_211841" height="400" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8210/28815870383_498b312571_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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I remembered from Jennifer Stern's PR jeans class that she recommends using regular thread for buttonholes that is the same color as the topstitching thread instead of using the actual topstitching thread, but I had no thread in my stash that matched the "velvet fog" topstitching thread. I decided to try a few samples first and see if my machine could handle making buttonholes with topstitching thread up top and regular purple Coats and Clark poly thread in the bobbin. <br />
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Making a few samples was not a problem as I had already made many flaps for topstitching practice, and it turned out my machine could handle it very well.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30028425322/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20161005_214248"><img alt="IMG_20161005_214248" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8267/30028425322_334a92175d_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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However, when it came time to make the buttonholes down the front placket, I realized that the very top two buttonholes would be visible from both sides (since the jacket could be worn buttoned to the top or buttoned with the top two undone, or left totally open). By this point it was the next weekend, and while I could have gone to Joann's during the week to buy matching regular Coats and Clark thread, I had not. Of course I was not going to make the one hour round trip to Jo-Jo's (and on a weekend at that) to buy matching poly thread. Instead, I decided to push my machine and see if it could make buttonholes with topstitching thread in both the spool AND the bobbin.<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/30028276402/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20161005_213010"><img alt="IMG_20161005_213010" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8140/30028276402_84f6ff59eb_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
Front of the jacket--this is after it has been worn several times now<br />
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Interior of the placket--this is after it has been worn several times now.<br />
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I made a few buttonhole samples using the placket samples I had practiced topstitching on and they were ok. They could be better, and I had to push my machine at times into stitching them, but they were good enough so I proceeded.<br />
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I started at the bottom (so that by the time I got to the most visible, topmost buttonholes I would be a buttonhole expert ha ha) and worked my way up. My machine got hung up on the third buttonhole from the bottom and so I stopped and started again with the 4th one...it was fine until the 7th when it totally choked---this was because the long buttonhole foot was getting stuck on the pocket flap located directly behind the 7th button which I didn't realize until it was happening, UGH. It then made the 8th buttonhole just fine.<br />
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(I stitched the buttonholes down the placket horizontally instead of vertically, because that's how they were done on my RTW jackets. If I had stitched them vertically, the 7th one would not have gotten stuck on the pocket flap. If I wasn't stitching keyhole buttonholes but ones that looked the same in either direction, I could have started the buttonhole on the other side of the placket closer to the single row of topstitching instead of the side of the placket closer to the double row of topstitching).<br />
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I went back and removed the stitching on buttonholes 3 and 7 which took a LONG time. Looking back, it probably would have been faster to drive to Joann's on a weekend, 1 hour round trip plus waiting in line to buy regular thread that matched the topstitching thread than to have stitched and unpicked those buttonholes, but it all matches now. When I stitched the 7th one again, I pinned the pocket flap up and out of the way and kind of had to push my machine into stitching the buttonhole even more than the others.<br />
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These buttonholes are not as nice as the pocket flaps, but from a distance they are ok.<br />
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Before slicing the buttonholes open, I applied Fray Check to the buttonhole, then let it dry, then flipped the placket over, applied Fray Check to the other side of the buttonhole and let it dry. <br />
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To slice them open, I used this buttonhole cutter I bought online from Nancy's Notions. I *highly* recommend this device. I had never used this device before (usually used a box cutter or snipped with my embroidery scissors or sliced it open with a seam ripper with some pins around the buttonhole to keep me from slicing through the buttonhole) but I am totally SOLD!!! Just whack the end with a hammer with the wooden piece underneath (shaped like a cute apple slice) and it is done. The set comes with an eyelet cutter as well, but that eyelet hole was too big for the diameter of my keyhole and on my practice samples had sliced the threads. For that part I used my embroidery scissors and snipped in a radiating pattern to open the keyhole up. I then applied Fray Check again to the front and back of the sliced buttonholes, waiting for them to dry each time.<br />
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Next time I'll write about the jean shank buttons. I had a little drama there... but ultimately it all turned out ok. I'm sure you can relate. :)<br />
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Be well!<br />
<br />Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-32518381155579707482016-10-02T19:13:00.002-04:002016-10-02T20:56:45.406-04:00Epic Jean Jacket Post #4: Fitting the Sleeves and Sewing the Cuffs<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29507314192/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160910_154057"><img alt="IMG_20160910_154057" height="400" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8346/29507314192_ccc7e83baf_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
Thank you for all your kind comments about my jacket!<br />
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Confession: I did not make a muslin before starting my #epicjeanjacket, the Style Arc Stacie. I had sewn a StyleArc knit top several years ago in size 12 and it fit very well, except for the sleeves which were a bit tight in the bicep. So, I was feeling pretty confident that the jean jacket would fit me, but when I wrapped the paper sleeve pattern around my bicep, it seemed like it was going to be too small. Of course, my fabric has 15-20% stretch and paper has 0% stretch, so I decided to just test out the sleeve.<br />
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My fabric is Pacific Denim, and while I did not have enough purple to cut out two sets of sleeves, I did have some of the exact same denim in red, which I had ordered from Fabric.com. I cut out the red sleeves from the straight 12, and basted them into my purple jacket.<br />
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I tried it on with a shrug, as that would be the most likely way I would wear the jacket, over a sleeveless dress with a shrug, and the sleeves around the bicep were FINE!!<br />
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At this point, I decided to check the sleeve length. I totally misunderstood what was going to happen in the cuff area, and I wound up taking an inch out of the length of the purple sleeves because of this misunderstanding. Of course when it came time to actually sew the "cuff", I finally understood what was supposed to happen, and in actuality I could have added an inch to the sleeve length. Oh well!<br />
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So the "cuff" isn't a real cuff, it's basically a really long sleeve that has a 3.5" hem. This means you can turn the end of the sleeves up and it creates the look of the cuff. The fold line on the pattern is the fold line for the HEM, not for turning it up after hemming. So, hem it at 3.5" and then turn it up.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29617686855/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160911_082154"><img alt="IMG_20160911_082154" height="400" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8112/29617686855_37e0851d74_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
Because the hem is so long, and it is in an area where the sleeve is really narrow, I took my very first BabyLock sewing machine out of the closet because it has the narrowest free arm out of all my machines. I had to turn up the sleeve a bit too to be able to stitch the hem. I used my white Chakoner to draw the line for the hem. I did not sew in the round because I wanted to see my stitching on the outside of the jacket. I stitched this part in purple though, so it does all blend in. I guess I could have stitched in the round after all, but I didn't.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29536790731/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160911_090529"><img alt="IMG_20160911_090529" height="400" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8668/29536790731_ab9e7d48a0_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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I did stitch the topstitching in the round, and with the topstitching thread in the spool AND bobbin, since it would be seen from both sides if I ever wore the sleeves down instead of cuffed up.<br />
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Next time I would interface this whole area (all 3.5" x 2 = 7") so that the cuff would be more sturdy. It also would make topstitching way easier. Since my fabric has crosswise stretch, I had to put tissue paper underneath the cuff so that it wouldn't stretch while stitching. Tissue paper would have been unnecessary if I had interfaced!!<br />
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I also felt the topstitching looked better on the interfaced parts of the jacket than it did on the non-interfaced cuffs.
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So, next time I will talk about the buttonholes and the jean shank buttons. <br />
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The last photo before buttonholes and jean shank buttons!<br />
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This is going to be my largest #pumkinette ever!!! As long as nothing eats it. Check out that stem!!<br />
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Be well!Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-1057628384234831572016-09-25T18:56:00.002-04:002016-09-25T19:01:19.477-04:00Epic Jean Jacket Post #3: Turning faux pocket flaps into real pockets<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29354151621/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20160903_171524"><img alt="IMG_20160903_171524" height="400" src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8545/29354151621_69bede0fe8_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Thank you for your comments on <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/09/epic-jean-jacket-post-2-stylearc-stacie.html">the topstitching post</a> for the #epicjeanjacket--I know that was a long one; congratulations if you read the whole post!!!<br />
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I was surprised that the StyleArc Stacie jean jacket pattern had faux pocket flaps instead of real ones, and since I like using jacket pockets I decided to add my own. Initially I wasn't sure how to do that, but I ultimately got the idea to take the pocket facing that comes with the Islander jean jacket pattern and extend it to create a pocket bag, much like how an interior zipper pocket is constructed. <br />
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First, I folded out some of the facing width (as the Islander pattern pocket flap is larger than the Stacie pocket flap), and I wanted the pocket opening to fit between my existing topstitching.<br />
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I then cut out that space above, and sewed on the extended facing, RS together. Turned RS out and then topstitched the facing in purple<br />
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Then I folded the pocket bag to create the pocket.
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Then I serged the pocket together--without sewing it to anything else! :)<br />
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I added my label as a little joke to myself.<br />
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My MetroCard fits in there perfectly! I forgot it was in there and accidentally ironed it, but I used my MetroCard this past weekend and it still works!<br />
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At this point, I felt like it would be a good idea to add the buttonholes to the pocket flaps and add the jean shank button, and those who replied on IG agreed! It was waaaay easier to add the buttonholes to the flap while it wasn't attached to the jacket. Then I sewed the flap across the top.<br />
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I'm going to cover the buttonholes and jean shank buttons in a later post. For now, I'll say that these buttonholes use the real jean topstitching thread on top and regular purple Coats & Clark thread in the bobbin. <br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/28815870383/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20160903_211841"><img alt="IMG_20160903_211841" height="400" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8210/28815870383_498b312571_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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That's a little compass on each jean shank button--I made sure to have North pointing up on each one.
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Next post: the sleeve and the construction of the "cuff".<br />
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Be well!Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-63650226886669889692016-09-20T21:17:00.003-04:002016-09-21T20:02:13.297-04:00Epic Jean Jacket Post #2 StyleArc Stacie: The Topstitching<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29016223504/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160912_190500"><img alt="IMG_20160912_190500" height="400" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8341/29016223504_621bea890c_b.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
Thank you for all your kind words about my <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2016/09/epic-jean-jacket-post-1-stylearc-stacie.html">StyleArc Stacie jacket</a>!!<br />
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Since I have so much to say about this jacket, I'm divvying it up into several posts. This post focuses on the topstitching!!! Topstitching is NOT for the weak; there is an "ugh" moment when it doesn't look great, but there is a HUGE rush when it turns out looking great! <br />
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<b><u>Auditioning Topstitching Thread Colors</u></b><br />
As per Janet Pray's "Sew Better, Sew Faster: Garment Industry Techniques" Craftsy class, I "auditioned" several topstitching threads on a scrap of fabric. Some of these threads were regular Coats and Clark poly thread, some were Coats and Clark "heavy duty" or "jeans" thread, and the ones on the wooden spools are 80 weight topstitching thread from the Wawak catalog. I went a bit overboard buying topstitching thread from Wawak in 2012 after I made my first pair of jeans, but it was also great because I had plenty of choices.<br />
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<b><i>Also included, the "Seam Fix" which I discuss further down...</i></b><br />
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Sew, Jean Margaret <a href="http://sewjeanmargaret.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/jeans-jacket.html">had used pink topstitching thread on her purple jean jacket</a>, so I auditioned that color as well as shades of gray, white, and neutral. The pink colors had strong support on IG, but I ultimately went with a color called "velvet fog" (from the 80 wt Wawak selection) that felt the most like "me" and also had a vaguely lavender appearance when sewn onto the eggplant colored fabric. It also has a high contrast with the fabric which makes it pop. The 80 wt thread is also super thick and really stands out, and one spool of that topstitching thread has 750 yards on it, which is fabulous.<br />
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<b><u>Using bobbins as "spools" for the topstitching thread</u></b><br />
I had one wooden spool of the topstitching thread, but was going to stitch from two machines, so I wound multiple bobbins so that I could use the bobbins as "spools". This thread is really thick, so the bobbins wind up really quick (and then also run out just as quickly).<br />
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<b><u>Two rows of topstitching: twin needle or a single needle stitched twice?</u></b><br />
Janet is totally anti-twin needle; the StyleArc directions said to use a twin needle as much as possible. I wound up doing a combination of both twin needle and a single needle stitched twice, as below.<br />
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<b><u>Hammer Time vs folded up fabric vs the Jean a Ma Jig
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For some but not all thick intersections, I used a hammer to flatten the seam allowance (using a scrap between the fabric and the hammer) and a folded up scrap behind the presser foot to keep the foot level. For SUPER thick intersections, I hammered the seam allowance and used a Jean A Ma Jig (hump jumper) which worked like a charm!
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<b><u>Stretch Twin Needle Stitching</u></b><br />
For any seam that was topstitched that was either straight or curvy, but did NOT have a corner ,I used a stretch twin needle (since I was using a stretch woven) on my Brother Project Runway sewing machine. I really needed help to keep the stitching straight, so I used the overlock foot that came with my BabyLock Soprano. The overlock foot has a wide and deep ridge on it that I could put the non-topstitched part under, and it fit under there really nicely, as the topstitched part is always on multiple layers (like the seam allowance is pressed under the topstitched part).<br />
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By some small miracle, the stretch twin needle I used just barely fit into the opening of the overlocking foot, on the 1.5 4.5 setting, which also made it the perfect distance from the edge.<br />
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I used regular Coats and Clark poly thread in color 3190 in the bobbin for all stretch twin needle stitching.<br />
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I will say it was <i>not easy</i> to get the topstitching thread through the eyes of the twin needle. This required a little bit of patience, as well as cutting the thread where it looked "the thinnest" and threading "the thinnest" part of the thread into the needle.<br />
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Also I could not use the thread cutter on my Brother, as it would seem to get jammed up so I cut the threads by hand. I actually put a sticker over the "cutter" button on my machine as a reminder to NOT press it. <br />
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When I started stitching, I held the long thread tails out of the way.<br />
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<b><u>Single Needle Stitching twice</u></b><br />
When I sewed my Jalie Eleonores, I had written that you can't pivot with a twin needle, and a reader said that you can. I really had trouble doing this, and definitely need to practice more. So instead, for any topstitching that had a corner, I used a single needle on my BabyLock Soprano, twice. <br />
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For the first pass, I used my "stitch in the ditch" foot which has a flange. I put the edge of the fabric up against the flange, and stitched at 0.5, 3.5, 4.0<br />
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<b><i>Stitch in the ditch foot</i></b><br />
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For the second pass, I used the quarter inch quilting foot that came with the machine. I put the edge of the fabric up against the flange, and stitched at 3.5, 3.5, 4.0<br />
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<b><i>1/4" quilting foot</i></b><br />
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As far as knowing where to pivot, I drew with my Chakoner and a quilter ruler 1/8 and 1/4 from each edge with a diagonal line to show exactly where the corner is. Of course, when your stitch length is really long for topstitching, it is hard to "hit it" right on that spot. Sometimes it's a little short; sometimes it's a little long; sometimes you nail it.<br />
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I tried a few different pocket shapes and also tried twin needle before using a single needle twice on the flaps, choosing the best ones, and calling it a day.
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Since I used a size 14 topstitching needle for this, I could use my automatic threader and it worked just fine. However, I could not use the thread cutter (just like my Brother) as it didn't seem to want to cut the thread and so I cut the threads by hand. I also put a sticker over the "cutter" button as a reminder to not press it on this machine either.<br />
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Admittedly, totally wonky stitching here on the corners, but most people are never going to look that closely, and it was the best I could do.
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<b><u>Single Needle Stitching just one row and using the "reinforcement" stitch to secure the stitching</u></b><br />
The "placket" of the jacket had just one row of stitching down the front, so that meant the top of the stitching would be out in the open for all to see and not covered by a seam allowance (as most of the topstitching was--like those front panels--where the topstitching starts and stops is hidden within the seam allowance as the jacket is sewn together. For those places I did not reverse and go forward like I normally would--I just started stitching, holding the long thread tails while I stitched.)<br />
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So, for the single needle row of stitching down the sides of the placket, instead of starting going backwards and forwards, I used the "reinforcement stitch" on my BabyLock Soprano, which creates a really cute little knot. I used Fray Check on this knot to help.<br />
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I put a piece of painter's tape on the bed of my sewing machine 1 3/8" from my needle to stitch that topstitching row, 0.0, 3.5, 4.0<br />
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<b><u>Single Needle Stitching just one row and using backwards/forwards to secure the stitching</u></b><br />
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When topstitching the band, the reinforcement stitch didn't look so hot, so there I stitched forwards and backwards, then used Fray Check on that area as insurance. I also started and stopped the stitching on the side seam, which felt like the most inconspicuous place.<br />
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<b><u>Single needle topstitching on places where the topstitching would show from BOTH sides</u></b><br />
When the topstitching would show from both sides (like the placket) I used topstitching thread in both the bobbin and the needle. Normally I would use matching regular thread in the bobbin but I had no regular thread that matched "velvet fog" and didn't want to drive an hour round trip to Joann's so I used the topstitching thread in the bobbin too and it worked! Don't use the threadcutter! Keep the tails long and hold them out of the way when stitching so it doesn't create a messy ball of thread on the back.<br />
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<b><u>Topstitching on interfaced vs non-interfaced areas</u></b><br />
I had not interfaced the cuffs and honestly, the topstitching does not look as good there as it does everywhere else, which was either interfaced and/or stitched on top of the pressed seam allowance. Next time I will interface the cuffs too.<br />
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(NOTE: The StyleArc pattern says NOTHING about using interfacing. I interfaced the collar, placket and pocket flaps, and next time I will interface the cuffs too.)<br />
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I totally forgot til seeing this picture, I used the "tissue paper" method to keep the cuffs from stretching as I stitched. If I had interfaced them, I would not have had that problem!
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<b><u>Undoing topstitching</u></b></div>
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I am a perfectionist so I got a lot of practice ripping out topstitching. Basically, I took my tiny scissors and cut every other stitch, then pulled the fabric apart to release the stitching, and used the Seam Fix rubber thing to help pull out the stitching. There are parts that are definitely NOT perfect, but I tried 2 or 3 times and felt this was the best I could do. Looking at my 3 RTW jean jackets, they are not perfect either!</div>
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Also I did a lot of samples first too, to make sure I got the length and needle positioning down first. Mainly when I ripped out topstitching, it was because I didn't "hit" the corner right or the two rows of single needle stitching were obviously out of alignment with each other.</div>
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<b><u>Next up...</u></b></div>
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Next post, I'll talk about how I turned the faux pocket flaps into real pocket flaps by adding real pockets.</div>
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Be well!</div>
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<br />Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-81332748866501091242016-09-18T15:54:00.003-04:002016-09-21T20:02:33.942-04:00Epic Jean Jacket Post #1 StyleArc Stacie: Choosing the pattern, Cutting It Out, etc.<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29642208775/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160912_185302"><img alt="IMG_20160912_185302" height="400" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8193/29642208775_423fb59565_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><br />
This has been a dream THREE YEARS in the making, and it has finally happened!<br />
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I sewed a jean jacket!!!<br />
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If you <a href="https://www.instagram.com/vacuumingthelawn/">follow me on IG</a>, you saw the progress of this jacket--thanks for cheering me along!!<br />
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Side<br />
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Three years ago I watched Janet Pray's "Sew Better, Sew Faster: Garment Industry Secrets" class. <br />
I watched the 3.5 hour class from start to finish TWICE.<br />
I took copious video notes the second time.<br />
Because of that class, I use an Elna Press, Chakoners, and clapper. <br />
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The class comes with her Islander Jacket Express pattern, which is only for wovens and not supposed to be used with stretch. She sews a red denim jean jacket and of course this made me want to make a red denim jean jacket.<br />
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Cue the years of searching for the perfect red denim that doesn't stretch....no where to be found. Janet's response to someone else's question about this was to use Google. I emailed Craftsy asking them to sell the fabric--their response was that it is tricky to find. Beth from SunnyGal made hers out of red denim tablecloth--I started trolling ebay for red denim tablecloths, none to be found. Every visit to Kashi--do you have red denim? No. Every visit to Mood or any other fabric store--either they didn't have it or it wasn't quite right. I ordered some red denim from the Mood site, it was way too thick/stiff. Ordered some red denim from Nancy's Notions, it was too primary red.<br />
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In the meantime I bought the StyleArc Stacie jacket in size 12 in Feb of 2014--yes, the physical pattern, shipped all the way from Down Under. I had previously made a knit shirt in size 12 and just felt like the jacket was going to fit. The sample of fabric that came with the pattern stretches slightly so....<br />
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I had a 4 day weekend for Labor Day weekend this year and decided NOW is the time to sew the jacket. Meanwhile, Gertie recently released her cropped jean jacket pattern and I was left to decide which pattern to choose, like the Jean Jacket version of House Hunters....cue the HH decision music....<br />
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<ul>
<li>Pattern #1: Jacket Express, which has full instructions (written and video) but is on the boxy side.</li>
<li>Pattern #2: StyleArc Stacie: minimal instructions, but fabulous style lines and is more fitted than pattern #1. I kept going back to <a href="http://sewjeanmargaret.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/jeans-jacket.html">Sew, Jean Margaret's post where she made this jacket </a>and it looks fabulous.</li>
<li>Pattern #3: Gertie: cropped styles look great on me, and I will probably make this sometime... but went with pattern #2, the StyleArc Stacie, since I had been wanting to make that one forever. </li>
</ul>
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So I visited my jean fabric stash. Having recently done a reorg of VTL headquarters, I had all my stretch denim in one place and it was easy to go through. I selected this dark eggplant/aubergine color in stretch denim. It stretches ~15-20% on the crossgrain. There was a short period of time where I labeled new fabric purchases, and this one was labeled as Pacific Denim from Haberman's, in Royal Oak, MI purchased in 2013. It is the same denim I used for my red Jalie Eleonore jeans, just a different color. Pacific Denim is still on the Fabric.com site, but not in this dark purple. I had bought more of the red from Fabric.com after making the Eleonores, but somehow making the Eleonores made me not want a red denim jacket anymore!<br />
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I love how the Style Arc pieces are all FULL pieces, so I don't need to trace patterns that are to be cut "on the fold" to make them full sized. I washed and dried the fabric, cut out all of the pieces and pinned the pattern pieces to my dress form as I cut them out. This is so I don't lose any of the pieces and so that I don't cut out any smaller pieces from larger pieces somehow thinking they are scraps.<br />
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I also love how the StyleArc pieces have the seam allowances drawn on them--that makes it really easy to know the seam allowances for each piece.<br />
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However the StyleArc directions are mega-minimalist (what you see above are ALL the instructions) so I mainly used Janet's class and the booklet that comes with her pattern to sew the jacket, as much as I could. I watched some of her lessons for the third time for the parts I wasn't sure about. For the bottom band, which Janet's jacket doesn't have, I used Gertie's instructions.<br />
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Also the StyleArc instructions say 8 buttons are needed but you really need 10 (their website seems to have been updated--it shows 10 but my pattern from 2014 said 8), the list of pattern pieces doesn't include the sleeve, and I think the amount of fabric the pattern calls for is too not enough. I used almost 3 yards of almost 60" wide fabric, and did not have much left over. That includes some samples I made, and I probably didn't maximize the layout, but still....<br />
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There were four modifications I made to this jacket:<br />
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<ol>
<li> Cut two of the back yoke to use the burrito method as per Janet Pray</li>
<li> Used the pocket facing piece from Janet's pattern to draft my own functional pockets</li>
<li> Drafted my own facing because my collar wound up being about an inch too short on either side somehow and I liked Janet's method better for this.</li>
<li> I took an inch out of the sleeve length, only to realize later that my understanding of how the "cuff" is constructed was wrong....and I probably should have added an inch!</li>
</ol>
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Also I got out my three RTW jean jackets and brought them to my sewing room so that I would have an easy reference.<br />
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I have so much to say about the construction of this jacket, I'm going to break it up into a few posts which will have close-ups:<br />
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<ul>
<li>Topstitching</li>
<li>Making the faux pocket flaps into real pocket flaps with real pockets</li>
<li>Drafting a new facing</li>
<li>Fitting the sleeve/sleeve length</li>
<li>Buttonholes</li>
<li>Installing jean shank buttons</li>
</ul>
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This is piece #9 in my #summersewingdreams series. Fall officially begins this Thursday, so the official tally is I sewed up 9 pieces from my list this summer, (all blogged except for one bag and one dress), decided I didn't want to sew one piece after all, and I sewed one item (the cold shoulder shirt) that wasn't on the list. Hurray for dreams turning into reality!<br />
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Be well!<br />
<br />Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-65780542788075825292016-09-12T20:16:00.001-04:002016-09-12T21:03:46.291-04:00The Angela Wolf Delila Cold Shoulder Top<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/28986716740/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160827_185315"><img alt="IMG_20160827_185315" height="320" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8824/28986716740_d8f4455458_z.jpg" width="320" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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So....the Angela Wolf Delila Cold Shoulder top was not on my list of this summer's #summersewingdreams, but maybe for next year. (At PR weekend in Austin in 2014, Deepika said that "When we like a pattern, we must buy it <i>right now</i>. We won't sew it for three years, but we have to have it now!" which really resonated with me!) Recently, <a href="http://fivemuses.blogspot.com/2016/08/elizabeth-taylor-scarlet-ohara-grandmas.html">Clio made a trendy off-the-shoulder top</a>, in-season at that, and that inspired me to sew up the Delila pronto! <br />
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I used some royal blue lightweight ponte in my stash, purchased from Michael Levine's website in 2015. It takes 2 yards of fabric, regardless of if you make it long or short sleeved. I bought the pattern off the Pattern Review website earlier this summer.<br />
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This is a seriously easy shirt. Because it is a dolman style top, it doesn't require much fitting. Based on the finished garment measurements in combination with the general body measurement chart, I cut out a small grading to a medium at the waist, and went with view I, which is short sleeved but with the cold shoulder detail.<br />
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The pattern instructions are a spiral bound notebook, and really detailed. Angela is very much pro-twin needle (yay! I am too as I don't have a coverstitch machine <i>yet</i>) and the only improvement I would have made to the instructions is to specify that it should be a stretch twin needle.<br />
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The notches for the cold shoulder opening actually ended after the short sleeved line, so I went with the instructions which said to start the slit about 2" after the neckline and end it about 2" before the hem.<br />
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I bound the neckline in a different way (used a strip of 1.75" wide fabric, which was serged on one long edge. Sewed the band on to the neckline with .5" SA, RS together, raw edges together. Then I wrapped the band to the WS and wonder clipped into place, then topstitched the band down. <br />
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I made the hem 1" instead of .5" on the sleeves and the shirt (because it is easier for me to press a knit up by an inch instead of a half inch) .<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29274816422/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160901_091807"><img alt="IMG_20160901_091807" height="400" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8660/29274816422_b530a0ece5_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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I pressed throughout with my Elna Press and my clapper (which happens to be the Angela Wolf clapper, felt like it all came full circle!)<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29617724535/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20160911_183112"><img alt="IMG_20160911_183112" height="400" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8485/29617724535_7ccb462e31_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
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Next time I think I would shorten the sleeves by an inch or so, so that they end before my elbow. As it is now, they end right in the crook of my elbow and get wrinkled there.<br />
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I have worn it twice now and it is a fun and cool shirt to wear, and totally different from the other shirts in my wardrobe. <br />
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Thanks for the inspiration, Clio!<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29495180475/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160906_054949"><img alt="IMG_20160906_054949" height="320" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8064/29495180475_40fe1ef1d8_z.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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My first pumpkinette harvest of the season! Woot! There are a bunch more growing on the vine right now but I am always weary that something is going to eat them....hopeful for a second crop this year!<br />
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Next post, I will cover my #summersewingdream #9, the #epicjeanjacket.<br />
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Be well!Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com29tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-11840346623681095262016-08-29T20:32:00.000-04:002016-08-29T20:34:30.222-04:00Teal Lady Skater, Label Giveaway Update, Meeting Lisa from As I Said<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/28651322163/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160827_161209"><img alt="IMG_20160827_161209" height="400" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8144/28651322163_6983f9d275_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>I'm on a teal/turquoise/aqua kick lately...here are the last three items I have machine sewn, and one that I hand stitched (the bird on Izzy's shoulder)</i></b><br />
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<b><u>Labels giveaway update</u></b><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29236503496/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160827_144632"><img alt="IMG_20160827_144632" height="300" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8378/29236503496_7f1c397a6a_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Tech time and Linda T: Please send your mailing address to me at kdburkhardt at yahoo.com so that I can send your labels out to you!<br />
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Above are the woven labels that are left; if you want any of these, please leave a comment below listing the label(s) you want, then please email me at kdburkhardt at yahoo.com with your mailing address. Open to all including international as these are thin and light and can be mailed like a letter.
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<b><u>Teal Lady Skater</u></b><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29164731865/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160822_172910"><img alt="IMG_20160822_172910" height="400" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8838/29164731865_9b51cd25f3_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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This teal Kitschy Coo Lady Skater has been on my "to sew" list since <a href="http://vacuumingthelawn.blogspot.com/2015/12/kitschy-coo-lady-skater.html">last December, when I made the wearable muslin</a> out of this same fabric, only in black. This pattern has no darts in the bodice so it really lets the fabric sing without being interrupted by dart lines.<br />
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This fabric has loads of texture and is super stretchy. At the time, I went by the size chart and sewed a size 4 grading to a size 5. It was a bit too snug in the bust in the wearable muslin version, so I went with an overall 5 this time and I think it still kind of looks too snug in the bust (as in you can see the outline of my bra--keep in mind what I'm showing you here are the best shots and I tried 3 different bras plus a full slip) so next time I will go up to a 6 in the bust.<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29086759841/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160822_172943"><img alt="IMG_20160822_172943" height="400" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8333/29086759841_827ab5ca45_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29164738835/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20160822_172931"><img alt="IMG_20160822_172931" height="400" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8297/29164738835_7f4cb3aa23_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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I made it sleeveless and bound it in some kind of mystery fabric I bought at Paron. I didn't want to use the same fabric for the binding because it is kind of lofty and had nothing similar in the stash so during my little daytrip to NYC in June I went looking for something to match and this is what I came up with.<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/28649524554/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160827_162032"><img alt="IMG_20160827_162032" height="300" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8082/28649524554_d77df7da63_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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I stitch down my bindings from the outside, so my stitching isn't perfectly along the binding edge here, hmmmm....<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29272485045/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20160827_161918"><img alt="IMG_20160827_161918" height="300" src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8179/29272485045_9a0a6dd8dd_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>A little wonky</i></b><br />
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I took about 2.25" out of the bodice at the strap and another 1.5 " out of the bodice closer to the waist on the pattern that I traced. I knew from the wearable muslin that I needed to remove some length to get the horizontal seam of the skirt to be closer to my waist. I added 1" to the length of the skirt that I had traced from last time, and really should have added 2" as it is a little short...but I didn't have another inch of fabric to spare, sooo....<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/28649504414/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20160827_161944"><img alt="IMG_20160827_161944" height="300" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8192/28649504414_c666e504f6_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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I hemmed the dress by serging the raw edge first, cranking my DF up to 1.5 so that it would gather the edge for me, then pressed up 1" with my Elna Press, and then blind hemmed it on my machine, and then Elna Pressed again. I really like the look of that finish.<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29059027592/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160822_173753"><img alt="IMG_20160822_173753" height="400" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8019/29059027592_a91fae9d0e_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>Texture!</i></b><br />
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<b><u>Meeting Lisa from As I Said </u></b><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/28677220984/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160828_125600"><img alt="IMG_20160828_125600" height="400" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8283/28677220984_9c91bc5084_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>Lisa wearing her adorable striped dress which she recently stitched up--great stripe matching on the sides!!</i></b><br />
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I wore the dress to Philadelphia yesterday to meet up with Lisa from the blog <a href="http://lifeisexamined.blogspot.com/">As I Said </a>(and the IG account <a href="https://www.instagram.com/metamorphpursuit/">metamorphpursuit</a>). I've been a reader of her blog since 2008 and this was the first time we met in person. It was really lovely to meet her and spend the afternoon in her company. I had not been to Philly in YEARS and it was also good to get reacquainted with the city again. <br />
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We had lunch in Reading Terminal Market, then tried to look at the exhibits next door at the Fabric Workshop and Museum but they are between exhibits right now; only the gift shop was open. So we took the Phlash to The Philadelphia Museum of Art to see the Vlisco African Wax Print exhibit.
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29011613610/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160828_135805"><img alt="IMG_20160828_135805" height="320" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8831/29011613610_1fcab36423_z.jpg" width="320" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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It was really beautiful, I learned a lot, and I appreciated that it was not crowded (unlike the Met Man vs Machine exhibit that was overly crowded).
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/28677230724/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160828_135214"><img alt="IMG_20160828_135214" height="400" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8095/28677230724_53bf856f59_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/28679075193/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160828_135642"><img alt="IMG_20160828_135642" height="400" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8157/28679075193_87d3daf6f3_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29265913076/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160828_140928"><img alt="IMG_20160828_140928" height="400" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8530/29265913076_2235c05696_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29011645890/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160828_142048"><img alt="IMG_20160828_142048" height="400" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8261/29011645890_73d1738e88_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>In the sewing themed section.
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We wrapped up the day back at the Reading Terminal Market to get some sweet treats (I highly recommend the classic whoopie pie from The Flying Monkey--outstanding!)<br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29299692095/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160828_160525"><img alt="IMG_20160828_160525" height="400" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8551/29299692095_77f14b119c_z.jpg" width="300" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>Goodies at The Flying Monkey</i></b><br />
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Thanks for meeting up with me, Lisa!
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Be well!!<br />
<br />Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8600319387472537110.post-24312010461835120782016-08-22T20:18:00.000-04:002016-08-22T20:20:08.394-04:00Leather Bag Handles, City Quilter Closing, Woven Label GiveawayHello from a random vacation day. The weather was phenomenal today!!! Anyhoo, it's a bit of a smorgasbord post, with three topics that don't necessarily warrant their own post:
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<b><u>1. The Leather Bag Handles have Stretched.</u></b><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/28879499030" title="IMG_20160822_124937"><img alt="IMG_20160822_124937" height="300" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8556/28879499030_50efdf2fc6_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<b><i>They have also stretched on the other side of the same strap, I just didn't point it out in the photo above.</i></b><br />
<ul>
<li>I have been using and enjoying my leather tote. It is a great size, not too big and not too small.</li>
<li>It is lamb leather, so it is incredibly soft, and those who touch this bag in person remark how much softer it is than they thought it would be. One of my coworkers was compelled to bury her face in it, that's how soft it was!</li>
<li>The handles have started to stretch, though. I was very concerned about the handles separating from the bag (which is not happening) but had not considered that the straps would stretch. Next time I will insert buckram between the two strap layers to prevent that from happening.</li>
<li>I still haven't sealed the raw edges with gum tragacanth, and I'm not sure that I will.</li>
</ul>
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<b><u>The City Quilter Is Closing</u></b><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/10769849264/" title="PR Day 2013 at Elliott Berman fabrics in NYC"><img alt="PR Day 2013 at Elliott Berman fabrics in NYC" height="300" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2858/10769849264_b57a236d2e_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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The City Quilter storefront in 2013
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/28448749681/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160724_200341"><img alt="IMG_20160724_200341" height="400" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8864/28448749681_51ab325d51_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>My first pillow "quilt" top, pieced but not quilted yet, Elizabeth Hartman Fancy Fox II pattern. I bought the original Fancy Fox (and a few other quilting patterns) at The City Quilter, even though I don't quilt.</i></b><br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/15733571357" title="20141130_215552"><img alt="20141130_215552" height="300" src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7482/15733571357_518f39d24e_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>The City Quilter NYC subway fabric as an interior zipper pocket from a bag I made in 2014</i></b><br />
<ul>
<li>MPB Day 2016 was amazingly hot (I don't think I've ever sweat that much in one weekend in my whole life) and also really fun. I felt so incredibly happy throughout the day. </li>
<li>Alert: I did not buy ANY fabric during MPB Day this year. My sewing room reorg really made me not want to add to the stash. And it was soooo hot, I didn't want to carry more fabric around.</li>
<li>However, Anne told me that the City Quilter is closing their bricks and mortar store in October. A google search found these two posts <a href="http://vanishingnewyork.blogspot.com/2016/08/the-city-quilter.html">here </a>and <a href="http://www.shopthegarmentdistrict.com/2016/08/once-upon-time-at-city-quilter.html">here</a>. </li>
<li>I'm not a quilter (slowly venturing into quilting) but I have always loved the CQ for many reasons: . </li>
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<li>This is the only source for the NYC subway fabric that I have used in many zipper pockets and also a few gifted zipper pouches, and they will continue to sell that fabric online (it is their own design). </li>
<li>I've always been tempted by their umbrella kit, but truth is I'm never going to use an umbrella that is that big. If I lived in NYC though, I could totally have seen myself going to one of their umbrella kit classes for an afternoon.</li>
<li>I purchased a few sashiko kits at the CQ.</li>
<li>It's also how I discovered Heidi Boyd Crafts--I saw her kits at the CQ last August. As you know I am a huge Heidi Boyd fan and have stitched many of her kits in the past year.</li>
</ul>
<li>ATP and I will visit the CQ in September, but I'm not sure what their store will be like then, so close to closing. I will miss you, CQ!!</li>
</ul>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29081551171/in/photostream/" title="IMG_20160822_124556"><img alt="IMG_20160822_124556" height="300" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8499/29081551171_768c226aba_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<b><i>Heidi Boyd Craft Excitement</i></b><br />
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<b><u>Woven Labels Giveaway</u></b><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/kdburkhardt/29133752316/in/dateposted/" title="IMG_20160822_201019"><img alt="IMG_20160822_201019" height="300" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8373/29133752316_b439df0ca6_z.jpg" width="400" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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<ul>
<li>Sometimes people ask where I get the woven labels with random words on them (not the custom-made labels with "Vacuuming the Lawn" but the other kind.)</li>
<li>I bought some at Joann's but found many through variety packs on eBay, particularly the "Me and My Big Ideas" or MAMBI woven labels that I think are intended for scrapbooking (set up an eBay search alert if you want to buy some yourself).</li>
<li>I am purging some of these labels because of my sewing room reorg; would you like any of these? If yes, just leave in the comments which one(s) you want and I am happy to mail them to you for free, even internationally. They are very light and thin so I can mail them like a letter. First come, first served.</li>
</ul>
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Be well!</div>
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Kylehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06074339341919661384noreply@blogger.com14