Monday, March 17, 2014

Jalie 2682 done

Jalie fleece

Ever since PR Weekend Chicago 2011, I have been wanting to make the Jalie 2682 polar fleece.  PR Member "Kathy in NM" was wearing hers and I just *loved* it.  The quarter zip looked difficult but she assured me it was easy.

Jalie 2682
In the meantime I felt very intrigued by zippers, which resulted in zipper pouches, interior zipper pockets in bags and even a briefcase-style bag with a chunky metal zipper.

Turns out Kathy was right---the front, upper portion of the bodice of the Jalie is lined and inserting the zipper is just like inserting one in a zipper pouch.  It's basically a zipper sandwich.  It is *super cleverly constructed* and generally fun to sew.

I made a muslin and a half and then the real deal.  I consulted with Sunny Gal first who said I would probably need to lengthen the upper bodice half an inch to lower the armhole and give more room, and possibly widen the arms.  She was right!

The chocolate brown fleece is from fabric.com and the zipper from SIL Thread.  I used a 10" zipper; next time I'll use a 12".

Muslin #1:
This was size "V" for "Very Tight" and "Very much matches my bust measurement".   This is way too tight in the upper arm/armpit area and in my biceps.  I couldn't wait to take it off.  I didn't hem it because it was just a muslin. Also the upper bodice ends at a strange place.  Definitely needs to be lower.

super tight Jalie muslin (size V)

Muslin #1.5
At that moment I felt most of my fitting issues were in the upper bodice so I made a sample out of some hot pink fleece from Joann's remnant bin that I've had in stash forever, and a stash zipper that had tarnished in the middle somehow.  I think this was a straight "X" for "Xtra space".  But it wasn't enough.

Jalie muslin #2

The real deal
This is size X, but with a half inch added to the upper bodice and also fanning out the sides in the bust/armpit area to create more room.  That meant the sleeve cap was longer, so I was able to add more width to the sleeve for the bicep.

So here was my snowy look from two Mondays ago.  This was the only decent-ish front picture in the bunch so here you go:
Jalie fleece

My work photographer felt the prior version was much better looking/fitting but it is just too tight for me to wear.  Maybe in a stretchier fabric I could get away with it.  This fleece has 25% crosswise stretch.

The zipper:
Jalie fleece

The sleeve caps were really, really hard.  I had *not* practiced my sleeve caps with fleece and I should have!!  They were lumptastic because I am not used to handling such loft.  Always always always make a sample first.

Finally I got my sleeve cap to look like this.  Finally something smooth.
Jalie fleece

I blind hemmed that bad boy.

DSC03857

yes
Jalie fleece

And because I'm all excited about the serging

Jalie fleece
yes
Jalie fleece

Verdict: I don't know that I love it but I'm glad that I finally made it and in the appropriate season.  Another item to cross off my 2014 goals list!!!  It is now hanging in the magic closet with the muslin.  I might try again with a performance-type fabric that is stretchier...we'll see!!  There are just so many other things I want to sew and I am kind of itching to sew a dress again, and maybe (spoiler alert) another cardigan... I am only behind by two "completed garment" posts now.

Be well!



12 comments:

  1. I love the pullover! I'm not sure I've posted before, but I always read your blog. I enjoy your posts and seeing the lovely garments you create. Thank you for sharing!

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  2. I don't do "tight" either. Feel like I'm smothering. The final version looks very nice on you. I hope you enjoy wearing it. I've been sidetracked lately and no sewing for me. Hope that changes soon!

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  3. I love your top and it reminds me to pull this pattern out and sew it again. I am with you with tight clothing, it is just so uncomfortable

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  4. Thanks for the review and warnings. They are very helpful.

    I have the same pattern but have never made it up like the envelope. I just use the sleeve, back and top bodice parts to make waterfall cardigans for my daughter.

    You can see version 1 in plum in the middle of the mosaic:
    http://badmomgoodmom.blogspot.com/2011/01/2010-diy-wrap-up.html

    You can see version 2 with stripes in:
    http://badmomgoodmom.blogspot.com/2013/05/themefriday-sewing-space.html

    Can you believe it is the same pattern?

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  5. Very nice jacket Kyle. Stay warm!!!

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  6. Nice top, definitely try it in a stretchier fabric, too. Kathy in NM also inspired me to try this pattern. I have made it several times and love it.

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  7. Oh my gosh, this is fantastic Kyle!! I love the final look.

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  8. I love this too Kyle!! Look at you, getting all good at fitting yourself! Send some fitting expertise my way please. : )

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  9. It looks so cute on you! I like it so much, I am tempted to try the pattern. If you make it again, could you take some pics of your sleeve cap solution? Hope you get some wear out of it.

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  10. Very stylish for a fleecy jacket and even though I've had an overlocker for years I still love the look of neat serger seams too!

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  11. I think you're gonna like it more after a few days because it looks great! I often need a little distance after working on a project so closely. Think you'll ever make the sleeveless version?

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  12. This looks so cozy! Perfectly warm and snug. I'm sure you've been living in it this cold winter...

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