Sunday, July 24, 2011

Burda 7379, maybe done?

Burda 7379 done?
Hello all!  Let's talk about sewing today.  I decided to give Burda 7379 a whirl...  I'm a sucker for a great ruffle, and this one delivers.

Burda 7379 done?

I mean, really, check out this ruffle action (that is ruffle on gathered armhole action there).
Burda 7379 done?

And check out my "fake out sway back adjustment".  It's called using a belt and pulling up the part that should have been tucked in a swayback adjustment up and over the belt.  Here I did that poorly, but you can see the rufflage on the back of the dress as well.  (These thin straps are not hiding my bra strap, I might install bra strap holders).  (and I might cut across the back of the dress and do a real sway back tuck back there).
Burda 7379 done?

and a closeup of front rufflage.

Burda 7379 done?

So, there were a few things.
I used a knit fabric instead of a woven as per the pattern envelope.  I recall vowing previously to never do that again, on a different pattern.  I acknowledged breaking the vow and went ahead anyway.   This knit is from Metro Textiles, from Antoinette and my big NYC shopping day.  It is a thin knit and sort of wrinkles a little bit, which surprised me.

According to the pattern, the dress is supposed to be cut on the bias of the woven fabric.  I cut it on the grain since it was a knit, size 10 grading to size 12.
I tried the neck facing but it was kind of a disaster.  So I turned the edge over and twin needle stitched.  Looks ok.
The left armhole actually gets gathered too!  I wound up finishing off that armhole with single fold bias tape.  But the armhole is TOO big, especially compared to the right armhole.    Another great expression there.
Burda 7379 armhole too big on my left side

So I sewed in about an inch there to take care of that problem.
Burda 7379 done?

Oh, and here's the ruffle in progress.  It's two big long strips of fabric, cut at intervals which I'm not sure was necessary.  and the directions were confusing for that.  The illustration did not match the pattern directions.  So I cut the bottom strip every 3.25 inches and the top strip every 2 inches which matches the illustration and made more sense to me.  However, I'm not sure that cutting the strips on any interval really would have mattered.

Anyway, these pieces are based with two rows of stitching down the middle, then gathered and sewn on to the top (and then that left armhole is gathered as well).
Burda 7379 ruffle in progress

And here's a closeup on Emma, twin needle stitching and all:
Burda 7379 done?

Oh, and the directions.  I hated how the pattern adds SAs and then the directions say to "cut off SA at edge of neckline" and "cut off allowance at edges of armhole".  What?  When I gave up on binding the neckline I cut off some of that SA (while I was cutting off the binding, lol), but did not cut off allowance at edges of armhole. 
Burda 7379 done?

So, yeah, if I hadn't spent like an hour futzing with the neckline (installing neck band, removing neck band, tightening neck band, reinstalling neck band, waving the white flag and just cutting the neckband off, turning the raw edge over and twin needle stitching) I probably could have done this dress in about 4 hours.

So, I might do a swayback adjustment on this, and I might install bra strap holders.  Or one or the other.  Or neither.

Oh, and here is a cicada from last week, on the outside looking in
cicada, on the outside looking in

Be well and good night!

10 comments:

  1. I love this dress - the ruffle is just gorgeous and it really suits you. I'd make it again in a woven on the bias and then it will all hang so beautifully you won't need to worry about any kind of bagging or poufing - all part of the bias look.

    People who live with chronic pain tell me it takes over your life. I can really believe it. While you investigate all your options it is bound to be all consuming.

    ReplyDelete
  2. I've been eying that pattern for a while but haven't purchased yet. You did a great job with it.

    ReplyDelete
  3. I LOVE how that ruffle is done its a great detail having the nips in it.

    ReplyDelete
  4. That's a really cute pattern and you made it up into a very nice dress. Love the ruffle detail!

    (Hate the cicada!)

    ReplyDelete
  5. I love, love, love that ruffled thingie on your shoulder! What a pretty dress! I don't like the bug!

    ReplyDelete
  6. I know that knit! Good choice of pattern -- they look great together. Wow, what a ruffle. I'm about to start S2497 and it's got a mother of all ruffles, too. Hope your week is off to a good start!

    ReplyDelete
  7. Oh my, that is a gorgeous ruffle and dress too!

    ReplyDelete
  8. Oh the ruffle detail is so cute on this! I also love this color on you. Great job with your alterations. You've made an awesome new dress!

    ReplyDelete
  9. LOVE the ruffle. This is a great shape for you.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Your dress is absolutely gorgeous! Everyone is right about the ruffle and how the dress suits you.

    ReplyDelete

Thank you for reading! I love hearing from you!