Saturday, September 15, 2012

Need help fitting New Look 6103 view A

I'm working on New Look 6103, view A, a SuedeSays studio pattern. What is causing the waviness between my waist and hip on the side seams???? New Look 6103 in progress

There are wrinkles across the skirt in that area, but I think that's from me sitting down in the skirt, and not necessarily because it's too tight in the hip (though...if it is too tight in the hip, would that make the bumpiness between waist and hip?)

 The fabric is metro stretch denim from Joann's, a lightweight denim with some crosswise stretch to it.... The pattern does not call for stretch fabrics but I thought I could get away with it?

I cut the 14 but it seemed too big when I basted as a 14, so I basted it in as if it were a 12. I haven't cut any of the side seam allowances. When it was a 14, it seemed rippled and too big...now it seems to be the right size but rippled?

Also what do you think of the length? It is not hemmed yet...
New Look 6103 in progress
The length is supposed to be below the knee:
 NewLook 6103
Here are some more pix:
 New Look 6103 in progress
New Look 6103 in progress
New Look 6103 in progress
New Look 6103 in progress
It has a really neat pleated kickpleat detail which I will try to photograph next time.
New Look 6103 in progress
Any advice is appreciated!
Be well!

16 comments:

  1. You may have stretched the fabric lengthwise as you were sewing the seam. Can you pull up the threads a bit in the side seam, kind of like you're gathering the fabric just slightly, and see if the problem goes away?

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  2. I have no idea, but I'm gonna throw some questions at you. Perhaps use a stretch needle? a new needle? steam the seam, sometimes the fabric reverts? or alter the stitch length. Hopefully something works 'cause the skirt looks good otherwise!

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  3. I would try pressing the curve of the seam on a ham and see if you can steam it back to shape. If you can I'd try using some fusible interfacing along the seam inside so that it stabilizes it.

    If you have Power Sewing by Betzina it's a tip see gives to smooth the side seams and hip area with pants.

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  4. About the length of the skirt - do you want it to be longer and more on trend or do you want it to look good on you? The answer to that question will help you determine the skirt's length.

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  5. I find these stretch denims do want to ripple, somewhat annoying to sew. I suggest you unstitch the waistband where it crosses the side seams and pull the sides of skirt up just a bit, maybe 1/4 or 3/8". Baste and see if that makes a difference. good luck :)

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  6. If it's only basted, presumably you've not pressed it all that much yet? I often find a good press works miracles on that sort of thing. I also wonder if releasing the seam a little just below the wrinkle might help it relax. But to be honest, no one other than a sewist is even going to notice that tiny waviness...they'll just see a beautifully fitting skirt.

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  7. Kyle, I have that same fabric and the same problem! In my case I'm making the V1247, Rachel Comey skirt with the front kangaroo pockets, and it's rippling on one side only. Like Catherine commented, perhaps only another sewist would notice, but it bugs me anyway....just as it bugs you.

    Thanks for asking this question. I'm going to try some of the tips on my skirt. Good luck to us both!

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  8. I don't know what's causing the ripples, though I suspect it might be the fabric. As for the length, I agree with Carolyn. Below-knee lengths are on trend, but they do not look good on me at all. I am short and that length makes me look even shorter and frumpy. Choose the length that flatters you the most.

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  9. I agree with Beth regarding the rippling. As to the length, on your figure I think above the knee would look great! Gorgeous skirt on you!

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  10. Stretch wovens can be fiddley to sew. I would undo the seam and sew it again carefully not to stretch the fabric. If you have a walking foot I would use it, I always use it when working with any fabrics that might want to stretch. Other than that it looks great. As for the length I think you should try hemming it to the knee or above which usually ends up being the more flattering length on most people.

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  11. The length of the front could be too long compared to the back. My hips pitch forward so I always have to add fabric to the back and shorten the front to get skirts and pants to fit. You could try pinching some fabric out of the front horizontally, and then remove the same amount from the pattern.

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  12. I think Beth is on the right track. I've had to do this and it makes the skirt sit better on my waist. Sometimes I have to make the waist feature slimmer to sit on me properly.
    Fingers crossed for you.

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  13. Kyle I can't add anything to fix it but I agree with the question of length, and what Carolyn and Lyn said. Also if you don't have a walking foot and want to resew the side seams without stretching try using some tissue paper in between the fabric and pin it together and it won't stretch. For what it's worth I think it looks great.

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  14. Undo the seam, stitch again, if possible with walking foot. As others have said, this is almost certainly due to the fact that the fabric got stretched while you stitched the seam (maybe you pulled, maybe it was the machine).
    As the seam is now 'longer' than the fabric next to it, the fabric ripples.

    You could try to stitch the side seam in a stretchable stitch (overlock for example) that might make it easier.

    And obviously, press it like you're trying to turn it into crude oil :)

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  15. The skirt is looking good; I second Carolyn's suggestion to shorten it just a tad too :)

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  16. I have nothing new to offer regarding the ripples but I think it would look cuter hemmed just above the knee. I don't think below the knee (and definitely not right at the knee) is a flattering length on a straight skirt.

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