Sunday, August 15, 2010
New Look 6909: Addicted to Love
They're watching you...
So today was one of those "I'm totally entrenched in sewing" kinds of days--it's pretty much all I did the whole day. I started off with an easy pillowcase (maybe you'll see that later on in the week). Then I moved on to New Look 6909. I've been wanting to make this one since sometime last year. There won't be any sewing next weekend due to vacay, so today was THE day!
Just add red lipstick and a guitar, and I'm ready for Robert Palmer's Addicted to Love video
This fabric is a poly/rayon suiting from JoAnn's. It is really gorgeous AND feels
great. Awesome combo. though it looks kinda shiny in the photos.
What I loved about this pattern was the dress on the model, view C. However, I'm not really into bows and I've sworn off any kind of gathered sleeve (though the sleevecap is not actually gathered or pleated--it's the hem of the sleeve that has the pleat!). I also don't like having pockets at my hips, as I'm a pear--why draw attention there? I loved the tabs and sleeveless, pocketless look on view B. And hence my chimera 6909 view B/C was born.
As Amanda S noted in her SPR review, there seems to be some additional ease in the front piece that creates a kind of poofy part around the front of the hips. I didn't fix that since I thought I need that ease. It is a little weird but honestly, who besides a sewist is going to notice?
I could have used a swayback adjustment, but I was feeling out of my league with the back darts there too...
I didn't put in the kick pleat--I didn't need it. I cut a 12 grading to 14 at the hip grading to 16 at the hem, but that was waayyy too odd a shape (I was going for more A line, less straight sheath, but it looked weird), so I probably wound up with a 12 grading to 14, but I really don't know. It may be due to that adjustment that I don't need the kick pleat.
This photo is showing, from top to bottom: back of dress where I graded from 12 to 16, side front of dress, then how I probably wound up with a 14 at the hip down by sewing a big seam allowance that I later cut off...
I was surprised at not needing a SBA. I actually prefer Simplicity 2473's directions for princess seaming. The New Look instructions seemed to leave out some steps, like staystitching and clipping the curve.
I used the bias armhole binding, but sewed it on differently than they recommend. I think I did it the Simplicity way, but I haven't checked those instructions to be certain.
I had an issue with the facings--the neck facing is supposed to be flush with the edge of the armhole, and then it gets basted to the armhole. I couldn't get it to lie nicely...so I basically cut down the facing and then tacked it to the seam allowance at the shoulder seam.
I love bias details...the tabs are cut on the bias:
Buttons are from Rag Shop's going out of business sale in, what was it, 2007? They were 90% off and I only had two of this size and style that matched, awesome!
The collar is cut on the bias too:
Since there's no bow, the collar stands up all the way across. It's just folded over but vaguely reminiscent of a cowl.
Why am I pretending like I don't have to go to work tomorrow? better get ready for bed!