Tuesday, August 6, 2013

B4789 Part 2: The swayback tuck

Thank you for your comments on my last post, B4789 Part 1: fixing the too-wide neckline and too-deep V.  I'm happy to know that the pictures of the pattern adjustments helped.

Now it's on to the swayback tuck and how I performed this little bit of magic.

So there was the tell-tale pooling above the derriere on my muslin, and the way I "fixed it" on my muslin was to cut a horizontal center seam on the back and sew up the excess.

B4789 muslin swayback tuck
 But I didn't like the way that the underbust-line and the swayback tuck line did not meet on the side seam.

V4789 muslin

If I had mad pattern adjusting skills, I would have somehow taken the tuck out of the pattern but it was quite a lot to take out and I didn't know how to do it.  Even my 1960's sewing book said more than (hrm, it might have been half an inch) and other adjustments would have to be done.

So instead, I binder clipped that puppy, and instead of clipping straight across, I "curved" it upward to meet the underbust seam.

B4789 how I fixed my swayback issues
I tried it on and it looked much better than without the clipping.
On the inside I chalked off the horizontal line (and I drew it all the way across). That is the amt that needed to be taken out.
B4789 in progress
I then pinned it to meet the underbust seam.
B4789 in progress
I then sewed it up.
So this is how it looks on me:
B4789 done!
I think there is a little more that could be taken out, but it is MUCH better.  I also think some of that might just be shadowing from me not cutting the excess off.
B4789 done!
And here it is on Izzy:
B4789 done!
And all is right with the world.

B4789 done!
Next post: How I took care of the "holes" in the front of the dress, and the hem.  Oh, and how I cut it out too.
Be well!

8 comments:

  1. Wonderful remedy. Bravo for your persistence; your dress looks wonderful and that stitching line intentional.

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  2. Interesting fix. I like your solution.

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  3. I like what you've done Kyle. It looks like a much better fit. Nice.

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  4. Smart solution Kyle. I did something similar with a tunic last year. My motto-"Whatever works"

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  5. Ah yes, another office supply (binder clips) to the rescue! I need to make a similar alteration (for me because of my posture); this tutorial will help me when I am working with commercial patterns. Thank you!

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  6. I think this is a great idea. I love the curving of the seamline to match/meet the bodice. I may have to revisit this pattern. Can't wait for tomorrow's post.

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  7. Brilliant fix - now it looks like a clever design feature as well as getting a nice fit at your back.

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