Monday, March 17, 2014
Jalie 2682 done
Ever since PR Weekend Chicago 2011, I have been wanting to make the Jalie 2682 polar fleece. PR Member "Kathy in NM" was wearing hers and I just *loved* it. The quarter zip looked difficult but she assured me it was easy.
In the meantime I felt very intrigued by zippers, which resulted in zipper pouches, interior zipper pockets in bags and even a briefcase-style bag with a chunky metal zipper.
Turns out Kathy was right---the front, upper portion of the bodice of the Jalie is lined and inserting the zipper is just like inserting one in a zipper pouch. It's basically a zipper sandwich. It is *super cleverly constructed* and generally fun to sew.
I made a muslin and a half and then the real deal. I consulted with Sunny Gal first who said I would probably need to lengthen the upper bodice half an inch to lower the armhole and give more room, and possibly widen the arms. She was right!
The chocolate brown fleece is from fabric.com and the zipper from SIL Thread. I used a 10" zipper; next time I'll use a 12".
This was size "V" for "Very Tight" and "Very much matches my bust measurement". This is way too tight in the upper arm/armpit area and in my biceps. I couldn't wait to take it off. I didn't hem it because it was just a muslin. Also the upper bodice ends at a strange place. Definitely needs to be lower.
At that moment I felt most of my fitting issues were in the upper bodice so I made a sample out of some hot pink fleece from Joann's remnant bin that I've had in stash forever, and a stash zipper that had tarnished in the middle somehow. I think this was a straight "X" for "Xtra space". But it wasn't enough.
The real deal
This is size X, but with a half inch added to the upper bodice and also fanning out the sides in the bust/armpit area to create more room. That meant the sleeve cap was longer, so I was able to add more width to the sleeve for the bicep.
So here was my snowy look from two Mondays ago. This was the only decent-ish front picture in the bunch so here you go:
My work photographer felt the prior version was much better looking/fitting but it is just too tight for me to wear. Maybe in a stretchier fabric I could get away with it. This fleece has 25% crosswise stretch.
The sleeve caps were really, really hard. I had *not* practiced my sleeve caps with fleece and I should have!! They were lumptastic because I am not used to handling such loft. Always always always make a sample first.
Finally I got my sleeve cap to look like this. Finally something smooth.
I blind hemmed that bad boy.
And because I'm all excited about the serging
Verdict: I don't know that I love it but I'm glad that I finally made it and in the appropriate season. Another item to cross off my 2014 goals list!!! It is now hanging in the magic closet with the muslin. I might try again with a performance-type fabric that is stretchier...we'll see!! There are just so many other things I want to sew and I am kind of itching to sew a dress again, and maybe (spoiler alert) another cardigan... I am only behind by two "completed garment" posts now.