Friday, April 22, 2016
Simplicity 1688 : Striped #epicjacket
Is there something you've always wanted to sew, but you haven't sewn it yet? That item pops up on your "to sew" lists over and over, but the only place it is finished is in your imagination? I can think of a few such items, like a raincoat I've been wanting to make since 2012 or a red denim jean jacket that's been on the list since 2013. I'm not sure how long this Cynthia Rowley boxy cropped jacket has been on the list, but it's been at the front of my "jacket" box for ages now:
And now, it is sewn. :)
So how can this be an #epicjacket if there are no cuffs, no collar stand, nary a collar? Mainly because it was 19 pattern pieces and it took three weekends to sew. I continue to massively underestimate how long it will take me to sew garments.
Exterior pattern pieces, pinned to the front and back of my dress form, so I don't lose any of them.
Tomasa captured me on the hunt for denim. There's my neoprene backpack in action.
The exterior fabric is two coordinating denims from Mood, purchased during the MPB Day Winter Frolic in early March. The darker of the two has incredible drape, and I wish I could buy more of it for a denim shirt dress. The interior fabric is a luscious rayon bemberg, also purchased at Mood the same day.
Based on seeing a PR review where the seamster piped it, I made my own piping using this continuous bias tutorial from The Seasoned Homemaker. The cording is from Joann's.
Clipping the piping on
Piped sleeve edge
I traced the lining pieces (basically view A) in a size 12 onto Swedish tracing paper and sewed the tracing paper as my muslin, but couldn't get the jacket on easily without dislocating a shoulder. I wound up going with a size 14 and then tapering in the side seams of the real deal.
So, those stripes....the line drawing shows the stripes match all the way across the front and the back but when I sewed the first sleeve in, they did not match. At first I thought I did something wrong, but was perplexed because the sleeve seemed pretty decently set in to me.
Then I realized the line drawing and pattern do not match. You can see the small circles do not correspond to the same stripe. On the front, this difference is only .25" but in the back the difference is about 1.5". Earlier this week, Simplicity asked me on IG to email them to discuss the issue offline, and I did, but I haven't heard back. Anyway, I had no more fabric to recut the sleeve, and no real interest in redrafting the pattern, so I forged ahead and finished the jacket anyway.
I added sleeve heads as per this tutorial to give some support in the shoulder area and make up for some slightly imperfect sewing there. Drafting and making the sleeve heads is honestly a piece of cake.
Sleevehead sewn in
Sewing the lining to the jacket
It takes a village...of wonderclips to help set in the sleeve.
Instead of following the instructions, I think I basically bagged the lining, so the only part that is handsewn is the bottom of the jacket.
Before sewing the lining in...
With the lining in, my tag, and the Mood tag
Hooks and eyes
This might merit its own blog post. I think I'm going to sew the hooks and eyes in again. I didn't do any RTW research before sewing them in; instead I went by my 1960's sewing books. The bottom set of hooks and eyes keeps coming undone as I wear the jacket.
I've paired my jacket with my Sewaholic Davie navy blue dress. I think it's a great combo.