Tuesday, March 31, 2015
Pattern Review 105 Linda Top Done
First I want to say that I'm really disappointed to find out that I've been spelling ruching wrong all these years. I really think ruching should have an "o" in it ("rouching") but the dictionary says it's "ruching". WHAT?
Honestly, I am not a huge fan of PDF patterns in general. Their main selling point is that you can print them out right away and not pay for shipping, but I don't own a printer so there's nothing immediate about them for me. I'm also not excited by taping together a bunch of paper but this one was so so so cute, it's free for Friends of PR members and it wasn't too many pieces so I decided to give it a whirl. Thanks Deepika for the free pattern!
I think I was also intrigued by making a shirt that is supposed to have lots of intentional lines and wrinkles in it. That's all rouching! Sorry, ruching.
Ruching ruching ruching. The ruching does move around a lot. This may be because after I made my size M muslin, it felt a bit too tight overall so I went with the L sewing with 3/8 seam allowance grading to 5/8 seam allowance. Maybe I need to make the seam allowance wider in the stomach area to make the ruching more taut.
It was a nice chance for my perfectionist side to ease up a bit and not get obsessed about wrinkles. They're all intentional!!! Even my sway back....design feature!
The easy way to make the ruching
After watching the free Jalie 3131 bra making video, I learned an amazing tip I have never seen anywhere else about how to stitch the two rows of gathering stitches....(specifically from 1:01 to 1:28 in the video, though I recommend watching the whole thing--you get to see the full construction of a wireless bra without padding in under 13 minutes.):
The way I had learned was make two separate rows...this leads to many annoying problems (for me at least).
But the Jalie way is to make two rows with one continuous stitch!!! Then you pull both threads, but only on one side. I know, it is mindblowing and makes it so easy to make nice gathers.
I have also gathered before on my serger but I might prefer this way for short stretches...
The Shoulder Seam
The directions call for optional elastic for the shoulder seam; I like to use Stay Tape instead, serge and press to the back so it's hidden underneath the seam.
Doesn't that look profesh?
The Armhole Binding
For the binding, I serged the raw edge first even though it wouldn't fray because I like how it looks (see above).
Deepika likes to sew her bindings in the ditch; I prefer the stitching line to be seen. For this step I used my edgestitching foot. I bought it for my BabyLock but it fits on my Brother too.
Just keep the flange along the seamline and stitch.
It produces a beautiful, even stitch
My Twin Needle Workout
I used my twin needle to keep the seam allowances toward the shirt as pressing was not enough...
Both around the collar and....
At the gap that is left so the bow can be tied.
For the hem I serged the raw edge, pressed and stitched the hem down.
The hem is actually nice and stretchy! Someday I will get a coverstitch.
I wish the markings for the different sizes had the sizing marked instead of using the dashes. The only way I really knew was because size S was gray and the other sizes were black.
Incredibly funny story about this fabric
I have been labeling my fabric as I buy it with where I bought it and if I have wash/dried it. Usually I wash/dry all my fabric right after I buy it so it is ready to go.
For this fabric, I labeled it "PR weekend Austin 2014. Wash and Dry?"
Well, I had cut out my 4" square to test for shrinkage, but that wasn't attached.
I forged on ahead anyway.
I think I must not have pretreated it because this happened:
By the end of my sewing session on Sunday, my fingernails were stained from the fabric dye, especially underneath my fingernails.
I did not consider this fact when I wore the shirt to work on Monday.
I go to work, I go to the gym, I take a shower at the gym.
I come home and as I take off my shirt and bra to change into my pajamas, I catch a glimpse of myself in the mirror.
OMG I can see the outline of my bra.....the dye rubbed off onto my skin....it is especially noticeable on my side and back.
Sorry, no photo available of that, but I *howled*. And am glad I wore the shirt with a black bra and black pants.