Wednesday, March 2, 2016
Simplicity 2154 Epic Skirt Post #4: Zipper, waistband, square snaps, and thread chain
Thank you for your comments from post 1 (the wool), post 2 (the rayon bemberg lining), and post 3 (sewing the lining to the kickpleat).
Today's Epic Skirt installment centers around the zipper, waistband, square snaps, and thread chain.
Instead of sewing the zipper at the side seam as per the pattern, I sewed it at CB.
I followed Sunny Gal studio's tutorial on how to sew an invisible zipper without an invisible zipper foot. I really enjoy this tutorial and have used it for a few years now.
In my last post I wrote about my study garment, a brand new Talbot's skirt I bought at a thrift shop for $6. I looked to see how the lining was sewn to the zipper and it was machine stitched on, so I did the same thing. I had previously pressed back the opening of the lining where the zipper would be , so there was a nice press line there. I had already basted the lining to the top of the skirt so I had to undo some of the basting so that I could flip the lining and skirt inside out in that area, then used my zipper foot to sew the lining to the zipper tape. I then basted the lining back to the top of the skirt in that area.
I always cut my waistbands longer than they need to be, sew them on, then cut off the excess. That way I won't wind up with a waistband that's just a little too short. Since the kickpleat, from the outside, is overlapped left over right, I did the same thing with the waistband and lapped it left over right.
When I first basted the waistband on and sat down in the skirt, suddenly the whole thing was too small! I undid the waistband and let out the side seams near the top of the skirt and skirt lining (I had taken out some of the hip curve previously, and that was still fine, it was just the top of the skirt that was the problem. I will say at this point I was SO GLAD I had not serged the raw edges of the lining together-that instead I had serged the edges separately and then sewn them. That meant I could still alter the skirt in this way--phew!!!
I then stitched in the ditch from the outside to sew the waistband down.
Square snaps were then sewn on, as I prefer snaps to a hook and eye. The large square snap is from Botani and the small one is from Daytona Trim.
The Talbots skirt had a thread chain (I don't know what else to call it) near the hem of the skirt to attach the bottom of the lining to the bottom of the skirt. I made some serger tails and then hand stitched them on.
The big reveal: me wearing the #epicskirt!