McCall's 6256: NYC subway zipper pouch, again

I wanted to give a special gift to Gina, one of my #mmmay15 work photographers.  I felt she had gone "above and beyond" and is leaving to move on to other things.  I rarely sew for others but felt this gift was perfect for her as she has spent a lot of time in NYC.



I've made this zipper pouch before, in the large and small sizes, laminated and non-laminated, and even in non-NYC fabric.  For this version, I chose the small, non-laminated size.  You can see all my posts referencing the various versions of this zipper pouch here.


I am still on the fence about the best way to fussy cut the front.  The word "Manhattan" is not centered over the orange and blue subway lines.    This time I centered the front over the subway lines but then Manhattan is off center.  Previously I have centered it over Manhattan but then the subway lines are off center.    I'm on the fence about which version is better.  Definitely a first world sewing problem.


This time I added a grosgrain ribbon to the zipper tab.  I think velosewer did that with hers.  It's a nice touch.

I used a 9" metal YKK zipper from SIL Thread in NYC.
I also used wonder tape for temporarily attaching the zipper tabs before stitching them down.

The zipper tabs were fussy cut featuring the two main ways I have gotten into the city...the bus (above) and the train (below).


Other versions were lined in green denim; this version was lined in pink duck cloth.

I also used Fashion Sewing Supply sew-in medium weight interfacing in between the layers.  FSS medium weight fusible interfacing is fused to the outer layer too.  The duck cloth and all that interfacing makes the bag quite sturdy and it stands up on its own.


I added the "Party" label.  I am running out of labels with fun words on them but I have ordered some of my own custom labels which should arrive soon.


Gina loved it and let out a little silent scream when she opened her present. I forgot to tell her that she can tuck the tabs in if she prefers.

You've seen me use this fabric for interior zipper pockets on tote bags and backpacks. I'm thinking of making a full-on tote bag using this fabric.  It seems like it would be fun.  Guess that means I better order more from The City Quilter as this fabric has I am running out of it.  Cotton version is here.   Laminate version is here.


Black-eyed susans at the PFM are back, yay!

Be well!

Simplicity 1283: Modified Chevron MimiG Shirt

Thanks to everyone for your comments on my last post about the Ups and Downs of Chevrons.  I enjoyed them all and replied to each one.  I especially loved Kossiwa's idea about trying out a sample on paper or with scraps--usually I make samples of everything first but this time I just dived right in, like any enthusiastic beginner!

Front view


Side view


Here it is with the pants from the same pattern.  I love these pants and wear them SO much!

Back with the pants

Back with the skirt

With my gray Jalie shrug

My favorite pic of this outfit, even if it's not hanging straight at the bottom of the shirt.

Inside out

Changes I made:

1. Sleeveless and collarless
2. Cut the armholes inward for a less boxy armhole shape
3. Bound the arm and neckholes with strips of black ITY fabric. Originally I was going to bind with the black on the outside, but it was not turning out how I wanted to so I folded it over the binding to the inside and stitched down.
4. Lengthened the shirt by a few inches
5. cut the front straight across instead of  with a curve
6. Serged the raw edge of the hem and used a twin double needle to finish.
7. Also I think I cut the 16 to begin with and then wound up at probably a 14 or maybe even a 12 with the side seams.
8. No zipper, though it is a bit challenging to get it on and off.

I would like to make the shirt again, as intended, with a collar and sleeves, but probably not in a stripe.  I have some textured fabric from Kashi that might be fun for experimentation.  The collar definitely needs a stable fabric to look good, in my opinion.  I had a version of this with a collar but it was way too floppy and blah looking.

Thanks to Tomasa, Anna Christina and ATP for their input as I sewed up this shirt!

I leave you with flowers from the PFM.

Be well! 

The Ups and Downs of Chevrons

I had never chevroned, nor wanted to chevron, til I saw this pattern, Simplicity 1283:



Notice that the chevron is pointing DOWN on Mimi's shirt (foreshadowing).
How hard could it be?  (more foreshadowing)
Cut it on the bias, use the walking foot, and it'll be fine! (even more foreshadowing)


So how did THIS happen????

The chevron is pointing UP and I wanted it to be DOWN like it is on the pattern envelope.

Signal huge, heaving sigh.

Let's go to the line drawing.



Yes, the instructions are upside down, but it's easier to see the chevron with pattern piece #1 (the front of the top) with the directions turned this way.

Note the fold and the selvages.


If your fabric stripes are going horizontally across, from selvage to selvage, then look at what happens, above.  The chevrons will point UP.

Another way to state this is, regardless of fold/selvage, the chevron will be UP if the pattern grain line is perpendicular to the stripes.

If your fabric strips are vertical, from cut edge to cut edge, then the chevrons will be DOWN, as above.
Another way to state this is, regardless of fold/selvage, the chevron will be DOWN if the pattern grain line is parallel to the stripes.

So I had to cut it out again (with very limited fabric remaining) to get the chevrons to be DOWN:

To wrap my head around it, I drew on my traced pattern piece:

The black lines  on the edge are when the pattern grain line (that diagonal line in the middle) is perpendicular to the stripes.

The red lines  on the edge are when the pattern grain line is parallel.

(The dotted red line is the pattern grain line).


I generally cut single layer anyway, but with stripes, it's a must. Do you see the camoflauged piece??


I wound up having to cut it out a total of three times:
1.  First time chevrons up.
2.  Second time, chevrons down, but then I decided to cut the armhole in (as a sleeveless, because I was fearing too many stripes and also running out of fabric).  However, when I did that, it was cut in too low and deep on the front.  (Signal another huge, heaving sigh).
3.  Third time, with not much fabric remaining, I got it right.  Chevrons down, armhole cut in, not too low or deep.


It's done!  More pix, and modelled,  tmw or later in the week!

Have you ever chevroned before?  If yes, how did it go???  Do you prefer your chevrons up or down?

Be well!

The Conclusion of Me Made May 2015

Day 30: Peonies from the Princeton Farmers Market and a lined, cotton eyelet NL 6843 skirt.

• Day 26:  The dress I wear when I need to look nice
• Most days:  I used my B6072 backpack.

• Love that NL 6922 dress--need to make more. 
• Another rusty object
• Bonus Day 26 at the gym, tank.

• Day 29: Love this top and skirt combo; never wore them together before but love!
• Day 31:  I should wear that skirt more often.

Conclusions

• It was a fun month with no me-made repeats. 
• I made new friends through Twitter.  
• @SewSimplicity rocks on twitter--they love to favorite and retweet, and I was even their #SimplicityTweetoftheDay a few times!  I love the enthusiasm and interaction with pattern companies.
• I enjoyed finding new sculptures on campus for backdrops.
• I rediscovered some outfits, found some new combinations and want to sew up some of the dresses again.

Acknowledgements

Thank you to all my photographers the entire month:  Ellen, Sara, Diane, Paula, Tomasa, and especially to The Other Ellen and Gina who took the majority of photos for the month!  Gold stars to you all!

Be well!