Saturday, April 20, 2013

How to clean finish the loops on McCall's 6078

Can you stand another post about this shirt??
A funny thing happened with McCall's 6078. I went to work yesterday with the loops in this position: McCall's 6078: loops down lower
And by the end of the day, it looked like this: McCall's 6078: with loops moved up
The loops moved, on their own, all the way up to my shoulders!!
I actually wore with a brown shrug, which goes a long way to tame the wildness of the print:
McCall's 6078:  with cardi shrug
It was pretty funny. It does change the way the cowl looks, depending on where the loops are. I think this fabric is so slippery, that the loops are free to roam.
The 1" reduction in cowl is not quite right for me either, I think my next attempt (if there is one) will be 1.5".
 (Here's where I took a 2" reduction).

Oh, so I also wanted to mention, the directions for the loops are to fold the fabric on the fold line and sew, then turn inside out and hand-stitch the loop closed. Yeah, I wasn't going to do that. here's how to clean finish it:
I followed the instructions up until step (x).(I'm writing this while having my car serviced...I'll update the step when I'm back home).

I turned the loop so the right side was out and the sewn edge was on the inside, and in the middle, then I pressed it flat.
Then I put it around the strap like this (you can see the sewn edge is straight down the middle), and the raw edges are together:
a way to clean finish McCall's 6078 loops
I serged the raw edge:
a way to clean finish McCall's 6078 loops
I then used Fray Check to keep the serger tails from fraying. (I haven't mastered the technique of enclosing the tails in the serger chain. Yet.  But I've watched that part of my White VHS tape a few times...)
a way to clean finish McCall's 6078 loops
Then I turned it so the right side was out and the serged edge was inside, positioning the seam to the back.
a way to clean finish McCall's 6078 loops
I guess it would best to actually sew the loops in the place I want them to be....but haven't decided if I prefer the loops at the shoulder or further down.

Hey, look at what's in bloom, my amaryllis!
my amaryllis in bloom!!  4/20/13
Such a great red color!!!

my amaryllis in bloom!!  4/20/13


Be well!!!

Saturday, April 13, 2013

Take 3: McCall's 6078 view C changing cowl again

McCall's 6078 with loops


This fabric has a story....it was draped on the mannequin outside of Kashi's during PR weekend 2012.  I asked if there was any more of it left.
The answer, no.
I asked if I could have the piece.
Initially his son said no, but I asked Kashi and he said, "it's not even a yard."
I asked again if I could have it.
This time the answer was YES.

It was 35".
PERFECT for McCall's 6078.

I liked the loops, but last time taking 2" out of the cowl was too much and I couldn't really do the loops.

This time I took 1" out of the cowl.

I put the pieces back together again, and folded on the fold line, and drew out 1 5/8" this time (instead of 2 5/8" like last time.  The 5/8" is the SA.)

McCall's 6078 : reduce cowl by 1" instead of 2"
Folded on the line I just drew:
McCall's 6078 : reduce cowl by 1" instead of 2"
Opened the piece up and drew on the fold:
McCall's 6078 : reduce cowl by 1" instead of 2"
Cut that bit out:
McCall's 6078 : reduce cowl by 1" instead of 2"
Was feeling smart because I checked that the shoulder seams matched, so I cut out the back as-is. But the shoulder seams only matched... on the pattern. Depending on how you finish the back seam, they might not match in reality when you're sewing...as was my case and I took another tuck in the shoulder seam to make up for it.
McCall's 6078 : reduce cowl by 1" instead of 2"
So here was how it looked before I added loops:
McCall's 6078, before putting loops on
And here it is after adding loops:
Tucked in:
McCall's 6078 with loops
I'm wearing my J Stern Designs brown cords... they go together well.
Untucked:
McCall's 6078 with loops
I centered the flower on the back. Not sure if that was a good idea or not:
back of McCall's 6078
Here's how I finished the back edge:
McCall's 6078 inside back binding
And here's how I bound the armhole edges. I used a version of Deepika's method for the armholes:
McCall's 6078 binding
Here's a closeup of the loop. It's actually Halloween fabric, used for making Pocahontas costumes. I used it for piping my argyle dress last year.
McCall's 6078  loops
I might put darts in the back for my sway back, but maybe not. It's done for now.
Photobombed!
photobombed!  McCalls 6078
I'm cat sitting again.
Buddy helped me feed the squirrels today!
Buddy and the squirrel
Be well! Good night!

Sunday, April 7, 2013

McCall's 6078 view C take 2: changing cowl depth

McCall's 6078 view C:  on Emma and Izzy
Emma, left, wearing last week's McCall's 6078 with loops; 
Big sister Izzy, right, wearing tonight's McCall's 6078 with reduced cowl depth (reduced so much, loops are not possible)

Lots of interesting responses regarding changing cowl depth from my last post.

Thanks to all who left ideas.  I went with debbie's advice....here's the photographic evidence:
Here's the pattern piece for the front of view C:

McCall's 6078 : changing cowl depth
Fold along the fold line:
McCall's 6078 : changing cowl depth
I drew a mark at 2 5/8" (5/8" for SA; 2 inches for reduction in cowl length).
McCall's 6078 : changing cowl depth
Draw a line diagonally across:
McCall's 6078 : changing cowl depth
I folded on the newly drawn line:
McCall's 6078 : changing cowl depth
Opened and drew on the fold:
McCall's 6078 : changing cowl depth
I cut that bit out:
McCall's 6078 : changing cowl depth
Ha ha ha, so now the shoulder seam is longer on the front than the back. Sadly, i had already cut out the back, and no more of this fabric remained.
McCall's 6078 : changing cowl depth
It was a 'make it work' moment:
View B has pleats; so I took up the extra length on the front SA by pleating it out:
McCall's 6078 : changing cowl depth
Now the cowl isn't plunging:
McCall's 6078 with 2"less cowl (4"total)
But it's not long enough to put the loops on. Maybe next time I will try with 1" instead of 2" and see if that leaves enough for the loops but isn't too plungetastic.
I do like that my bra straps are covered.  and bending over doesn't put on a show.
And it was less than 2 hours cut to finish.  When was the last time I sewed a garment in under 2 hours?  Hrm.
I think it's cuter with the shrug:
McCall's 6078 with 2"less cowl (4"total), and with shrug
Happy Spring!!
 daffodils in my front yard 4/7/13
Be well!!