Sunday, September 4, 2011

How do I fix this? NL6000 bulging zipper

So I worked some more on NL 6000.  Opened the back vent, added facings, added the sleeves and cuffs.
But that zipper hump on my upper back persists.   The zipper is bulging there.
It's only my second invisible zip ever.
My fabric stretches WITH the grain.  Maybe it stretched while I was putting the zipper in (though it doesn't look like it stretched?)

Maybe I should have interfaced the SA on the CB seam to keep the fabric from stretching while inserting the zipper (though again, it doesn't look like the fabric stretched).

I think the zipper looks beautiful on the table, though you can see the hump is concave here...inward bulge

back of NL 6000 in progress

So, what can I do to fix it????
I'm thinking that tmw morning I might, ahem, rip out the zipper, steam the CB, and iron interfacing on the CB SA, and then try the zipper installation again.  Maybe with a traditional zipper.

Here's the dress so far on Emma.  I can't believe I didn't take a pic of it on me from the front now that the sleeves are in.  It's kind of a pain to get into and out of this dress and I've been taking it on and off throughout the sleeve process.

I think it looks a little 60's flight attendant.  But I'm ok with that.  Can I get you a beverage? 

NewLook view C 6000 in progress

Still left to do:
  • the hump
  • the fit at the hip
  • cut off about 2.5 inches and sew the hem
  • tack down facings
  • tack down collar in back
  • buttons
I must say, the back vent is beautiful, but after I cut off 2.5 inches and hem the bottom, the back vent will be all of 1 or 2 inches, something really silly looking.  I might eliminate the back vent altogether.   Kind of a shame, LOL.


  1. Oh I really hope someone has some thoughts for you on that zipper situation before you have to rip it all out. I wish I could help, but I don't know the answer. I do know the dress is looking really nice. I love the results this pattern gives and all the eye-catching details. Soon you will have a beautiful new dress to add to your closet!

  2. Undo the zipper and interface the seam allowance, it will make all the difference in the world. Make sure your SA is not smaller in that area leaving extra fabric in that area.

    Hope that helps because I think is super nice!

  3. I would interface the zipper area *and* ease the zipper in (bend the fabric as it will sit on your back as you are pinning the zipper in place so it will sit correctly when you are wearing it). Here's a post on how I did this for a skirt: I ran into this problem many times with zippers on curves, especially for skirts. How this helps!

  4. hmmm, I didn't encounter that problem when I made my version - and I didn't interface my stretch ponti fabric either. So unfortunately I'm not much help on this one at all sorry! I hope interfacing the seam allowance and easing the zipper in fixes the problem, because this really is a fantastic dress

  5. One more vote for interfacing the seam allowance. I have NEVER been able to insert an invisible zipper without interfacing; it always puckers or stretches.

  6. Yes, interface the zip area. The problem is probably occuring because the zip is stable and the knit is not, so they are fighting each other.

  7. Consensus is to interface - look forward to hearing the outcome! Very suspenseful......


  9. My first thought was there is too much length in the upper back, for which there is unfortunately no fix. I hope steaming and interfacing work! It's a very cute dress. I think the flight attendant vibe is a bonus.

  10. Definitely take out that zip and apply bias binding to the seam allowance, or interfacing if your prefer. I would cut a bias strip of cotton because it is more stable.
    If your fabric is stretchy then it may be worth basting the seam together and seeing if you can slip it on over your head without the need for a zip... worth a try anyway.

  11. I don't have time to read all the comments, but we see this issue with knitted items all the time. There's a great post about it at and her solution was a shorter zipper than what was called for. Hope that helps :)

  12. That happends to me all the time (and on me it looked MUCH worse, don´t worry!) and it usually was my back being too narrow. (I have to add that I usually had this with a mayor back neck gap! So all I did was slim the entire center back and maybe add darts)


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