Saturday, May 25, 2013

Facing my fears part 3: my first fly front trouser zipper sample

Three of my coworkers independently asked me on Friday what I'm doing on my three day weekend.
Each time I replied, "I think I'm going to sew my first pair of trousers."
I was met with silence each time.
But you, dear reader, understand how exciting this is!!
fly front zipper trouser sample!
Tonight I sewed my first fly front zipper for trousers sample.
I've sewn fly fronts for jeans but not for trousers before.  The order of construction is a little different and I wanted to practice first.  This sample is using the Sewaholic Thurlow trousers pattern.  I followed a combination of pattern instructions and Lladybird's sewalong picture tutorial.

fly front zipper trouser sample!

The inside is ok.  There is a little bubbling which I think was probably due to the fabric not being aligned properly when I sewed the crotch seam.  However, that was all the way at the beginning so I can't verify that now.
fly front zipper trouser sample!
The insidelooks ok  for the most part.  That fly front extension seems gigantic, but I think that's because when the waistband gets sewn on, it will have a button AND a hook/eye type closure on the inside, so it has to be wider.
But I'm more concerned about the zipper length.  The pattern calls for a 4" zipper, and I actually had one from Fabrix in SF.  This means, though, that the distance from the top of the pants to the start of the zipper is 1.125"!!!!  If you sew the waistband with a 5/8" seam, there would be 1/2" gap between the waistband and the top of the zipper, amIright???  

I sewed the crotch seam, front and back at the start of the sample.  Here is a good reason why you really need to
a) be precise
b) check the back pockets before sewing in the zipper.  The welts are not aligned with each other!
welt pockets
Here's a view from the inside.  The pattern has this triangle shaped extension, like men's trousers, which would enable you  to 'let out' the pants in the future for any, um, expansion...I'm not sure if that will make it into my version as that part got lopped off during muslining...
interior welt pockets
So, what's next???  Antoinette helped me with my trouser muslin last weekend, so I am going to take it apart and sew up one more muslin, and if all's well, I'm going to make my trousers!
peony flowers from Princeton Farmer's Market
Love the delicate pink outlining some of these peony petals from the Princeton Farmers Market.
Be well!


  1. The peonies are beautiful! Your practice zipper looks like it went pretty well. I almost always use a longer zipper than is called for. I like having the extra length. I just trim it off the top when I apply my waistband. The waistband becomes my zipper stop. Keep at it. You are making wonderful progress!

  2. You are on the right track. I made my first 3 trousers in the last few month with the help of two little videos. The first one from Threads magazine:
    And the other one is in Youtube:
    They were Super helpful to me.
    Have a great Memorial Weekend!

  3. Go Kyle! You have a lot of new fabrics, patterns and notions to play with and make some fabulous things. Pretty peonies, too!

  4. Isn't the extra room above the zipper for a button? I am eagerly awaiting the news on that marked-up muslin we worked on last weekend. ;)

  5. Your practicing looks great! I just finished some Thurlows...just have to hem! I ended up finding the fly extension was too wide when I attached the waistband but don't know if I messed up somewhere.....


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